No, you never see it comin', always wind up wonderin' where it went
Only time will tell if it was time well spent
It's another revelation, celebrating what I should have done
With these souvenirs of my trip around the sun
-- Jimmy Buffett, lyrics, Trip Around the Sun
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| Our village, Agios Nikolaos |
Several times in the last few days we’ve remarked, ‘This winter certainly isn’t like last. . .’ or ‘Last year . . .” comparing the weather, or state of the garden or happenings in the village. And each time, I’ve thought how amazing it seems that we’ve completed our first trip around the sun living in Greece; fulfilling the challenge we gave ourselves to ‘live differently’ while we were still able.
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| The Stone House on the Hill |
In our case, for you new readers, that means in a home at the edge of an olive grove on a hillside in Greece’s rural Peloponnese.
(For regulars here, I promise more tales of our Arabian nights will be forthcoming as I am feeling a bit like Sheherazade with more from our Arabian and Indian travels than I’ll ever be able to tell you. But as the year comes to a close it seems a time to reflect on this trip around the sun of ours and life’s souvenirs we’ve gathered along the way.)
Winter “Wonder” land
Honestly, I’m not sure if I’d have bet money we’d make it as full-time ex pats at this time last year.
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| Stormy seas, stormy skies, stormy day in Agios Nikolaos |
We moved into full-time ex pat life just weeks before the winter storms arrived and what a winter it was! Weekly, it seemed during the month of December, the wind whipped down the gorges of the Taygetos Mountains, howling and shrieking; a wind strong enough to knock over potted plants while rain came down in the proverbial buckets.
At the time, if we were honest, we’d have to say we wondered what had sounded so appealing about this ‘living differently in Greece’ idea. . .
For a day, sometimes two or three we’d hunker down to avoid the nasty weather in our
Stone House on the Hill even though it was dark and cold thanks to power outages caused by blown transformers or downed power lines.
Even with a roaring fire in the fireplace and candles scattered about, let me tell you, you can start going stir crazy in cold, dark houses.
‘It isn’t a normal winter,’ the locals would say.
‘Haven’t had power outages like this for a decade,’ long-time ex pats would say.
‘This is driving us nuts!’ we would say.
In January – as you regulars here know – we set off for our Hawaiian timeshare life and had I not had my cats awaiting my return I might not have come back and doubt if
The Scout would have resisted.
Springtime Came Early
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| Kalderimi near our home in the Peloponnese |
By mid-February though we were reminded that most of the time our area – best known for the groves of Kalamata olives that carpet the countryside here – is downright breath-taking in the spring and luckily spring comes early!
The countryside was covered in blooms and you may recall I wrote about taking outings on the ancient
kalderimi, cobble-stoned roads that were built decades ago for hooved animals that linked the villages. (They lace the countryside here and are most popular with hikers and outdoor enthusiasts., If you are considering a visit, you might want to time it to see the springtime blooms and experience
these roads less traveled. )
Spring was also the time we began in earnest planting flowers and vegetables in our garden. I had visions of the harvests I would have. . .
The sunflowers towered over me. I built bamboo frames (as they do here) for the promising tomato plants. Strawberries were going to be plentiful.
I would make jam.
I’d probably have to freeze some of the tomatoes.
I’d give away potatoes.
Yes, the promise of spring. . .
And then Came Summer
And with it the realities of that Mediterranean sun. . .these photos taken in July tell the garden story. No amount of watering (morning and night) nor the addition of shade (using beach umbrellas) could save the garden. My harvest was humbling (it’s okay, you can laugh as even I can laugh now) and is shown in the bottom photo – a few garlic, tomatoes, almonds, and potatoes.
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| Summer realities in the garden |
By August another reality hit and that was the loss of our olive crop to the pesky
dako, the olive fly that has destroyed crops in Italy and France, and now is invading Greece. We had no harvest this year, nor did many of our Greek friends. Ours is a hobby, so was disappointing, but we could almost cry for our many Greek friends who have hundreds or thousands of trees and who lost their crops on which they depend for income this year.
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| Reality set in back in August |
Many versions of ‘why’ exist but the most often given is that Spring's warm, wet weather also nurtured the fly’s eggs and thus doomed the crops.
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| Hot time in the summer in the villages |
Crop failures aside, summer was a wild, wacky time in the villages. Streets closed to traffic in the evening and taverna tables filled the roadways. We are so used to our American friends never having heard of our area, that we were stunned to see the hundreds of tourists who flock here every summer from other countries. It was hot, but it was grand!
Autumn’s Arrival – how quickly it came
By this point in our grand adventure of living differently, we’d given up the idea of being homeless in America. We’d made it for almost a year. We realized that boomer-aged people who have money in financial institutions and medical care providers in the US, and well, who have to deal with the government (Social Security and Medicare) really need a residential address in the U.S. Greek addresses (which we don’t even have) and Greek phone numbers just don’t fit in the forms (we were square pegs trying to fit round holes).
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| Another adventure in living: Manson, Washington State |
Autumn brought a return to the U.S. so we could move our belongings into our residence we’d purchased back in July (it can be done from Greece) in Central Washington State. For now the home will serve as a landing pad when we visit, provide that much needed address, and be our fall-back plan and destination when the time in Greece comes to an end.
Winter Comes Again
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| December 28, 2018 Stone House on the Hill |
Winter has returned to The Mani, this place where we’ve lived while taking that trip around the sun. This year storms have been few, temperatures are mostly spring-like.
Our trip around the sun has been filled with making new friends and creating ‘our world’ here, continuing to learn the nuances of a new culture, struggling to learn a Greek word here and there and planning for ‘next year’.
We will be reapplying for our resident permits in the spring and if granted we can continue on as full-time residents for another three years.
And you know? I think we just may do that!
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| A toast to you on solstice in Abu Dhabi at The Grand Canal |
Our wishes to you all for the Happiest of New Year’s and we hope your travels – whether in real life or armchair – take you to places you’ve always dreamed of visiting. And our thanks for coming along with us on this journey and all the others on which you’ve joined us. We appreciate the support and cheerleading when we needed it and all the kind words and comments you’ve made along the way.
Hope to see you back here next week and bring some friends along with you!!
Linking this week with:
Through My LensOur World TuesdayWordless WednesdayCommunal Global
