The House Without a Key

Kanoe Miller performs at - House Without a Key

One of our favorite outings in Waikiki is to the House Without a Key in the ultra-posh Halekulani Hotel. We go there for a taste of yesteryear Hawaii and high-end entertainment. We sit under the courtyard's centerpiece 100+-year-old Kiawe (key-ah-vey) tree, sipping wine, while being serenaded by musicians - masters of Hawaiian songs - and watch Kanoe Miller as she tells tales through her gentle hula moves; all against a backdrop of the setting sun.

But almost as good as is the setting and show, is the history of how the place got its name. You see, this indoor-outdoor gathering place, honors the book that kicked off the Charlie Chan detective series, The House Without a Key, written in 1925 by Earl Derr Biggers. 

And, as we were told, that story goes. . .

The Halekulani, originally a private beech front residence, had accommodated guests since 1917.  And it was owned by a retired sea captain. Biggers is said to have conceived the series while staying in a nearby Halekulani cottage.  The House Without a Key has detective Charlie Chan solving the murder of a sea captain.  There's a belief that Charlie Chan was based on Chang Apana, a real detective in Honolulu in the 1920's, but there are questions as to whether Biggers knew him or only knew of him.

We've been hooked on the Charlie Chan series since 2008 when Academy Chicago Publishers brought the books back into print.  And after becoming enamoured with Charlie, I always wonder if Biggers might have been sitting under the same tree sipping a libation when he came up with the idea for my favorite fictional crime fighter.

Note: Click on the Kanoe Miller link above to see a video from YouTube of her performance.  The House Without A Key is on our Amazon carousel, found on the lower right side of the http://www.travelnwrite.com/  homepage. I've also added the beach books I wrote about last week to

Diet to Go: Tropical Feast - not Famine

Okay, the truth is, we've never lost weight on one of our extended trips. . .until now.

Our culinary journey, our 'Diet to Go' (DTG), kicked off in Kirkland's safe confines.  A quick trip here or there and not of the length that would throw a monkey-wrench into the efforts. Truthfully, our hopes for Hawaii were to not gain as much as previous years. (Four pounds each last year and --oink --about six the year before).

So the fact that I am telling you we are each down 1 - 1.5 pounds from when we arrived, is amazing.

Remember, we were following the Glycemic Load Diet (the book's on the Amazon carousel on our homepage) by Dr. Rob Thompson, who also wrote a guest post about travel and dieting for us. We've not spent time 'thinking diet' but what we've done differently is:

• Maui potato chips gave way to Kim Chee,  home-made Korean spicy cucumber chunks that we discovered at a local farmer's market.
• Baked potatoes of previous years were history with many green salads taking their place; locally-grown Manoa Valley lettuce melts in the mouth.
• We've not had any crackers or corn chips or cookies.

What we have had: 

• a milk shake, a couple Starbucks frozen mochas dripping in chocolate and whipped cream, macaroni salad (in small portions),chocolate covered macadamia nuts every night along with quantities of wine far in excess of what we would have at home. 
• We've also eaten lau lau, the Hawaiian pork and fish wrapped in taro leaves and steamed in tea leaves, steak, fish, and  Hawaiian 'plate lunch' (substituted green salad for the usual scoops of rice and mac salad).
• We've eaten more than a dozen papayas and nine pineapples.

For a number of reasons, but primarily the view from our deck and the cost-savings, we've eaten every meal 'at home' since arriving at Ko Olina. We've been inspired by the discovery of a nearby farmer's market and helped by a new grocery/deli at Ko Olina.

The local fare at our nearby farmers market has been a culinary journey.  Farm fresh eggs, lettuce, fresh fish, homemade goodies have all tempted. We  sampled dark chocolate covered fresh strawberries last week at our Waianae Farmers Market and they gave me the recipe.  I think it fits in with our Diet to Go, so here it is:

Hawaiian Beach Wear

The middle-aged guy walking across the beach in colorful swim trunks and an aloha (tropical print) shirt, black dress shoes and a nice pair of black dress socks, pulled way up high on his calves made me remember the time, not so many years ago, that I brought several pairs of nylons to Hawaii. 

Now that, by far, was the stupidest thing I could have packed aside from maybe a pair of woolen gloves. Where I thought I would be wearing them, or how, with flip-flops, I don't know. I do chuckle when I read the travel journal notes from that trip that remind me: 'DON'T bring nylons again!'

But it is hard to not bring reminders of your real world and your lifestyle with you when you travel.

I've done a couple of interviews while on this trip for articles I am working on.  For each of them, I 'dressed up' - wearing my black flip-flops instead of the blue ones with palm trees.  And while I had to dig to the bottom of my purse, I finally found some lipstick - haven't seen that tube in days.

In Hawaii, clothes colors are as bright as the spirit. They don't need to coordinate either as most the time outfits are some combination of  floral and/or stripes, sometimes at the same time and worn in as sunglasses, hat, swimsuit, top, cover up, shorts, and beach towel 'wraps'.
I've come a long way since packing those nylons.  My near constant   look these days is a bright blue top which reminds me of the sea and sky, and a bright green hat the colors of palm fronds, and printed with white hibiscus blooms (hibiscus is the state flower of Hawaii). 

My wardrobe is brighter and more carefree; come to think of it, so is my outlook on life.

A Seaside Serendipity

She and I first nodded and mumbled a greeting as we passed in the exercise room at Marriott's Vacation Club Ko Olina.

The next time we passed, she said, "You look so familiar. Are you from Seattle?"

I responded that she also looked familiar in that 'sort of' kind of way.  By that point, Annette and I compared notes: I live in Kirkland and she lives in Bellevue, a couple miles down the road from me. We hadn't worked together. We hadn't volunteered together. Church? No. Civic group? No.Husbands know each other? No.

A perplexing situation.  Still there was something familiar. . .
And then we figured it out.  We had met on a cruise, some four years ago, as we sailed through the Mediterranean.  We had talked often on that ship.  We had hit if off to the point that I had encouraged them to look at a house up for sale on our cul de sac.

Now we laughed about bumping into each other in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. And we said we should get together 'back home' but neither had paper or pen to exchange phone numbers at any point we talked. . .

Their stay was over yesterday. . .Beach Boy and I were at the Farmer's Market up the road when I remembered I hadn't gotten her phone number.  So we are back to the serendipity of travel. . .bringing people together in the most unexpected of places. 

Wonder when Annette and I will bump into each other again. . .and where.

A Beach + A Book = Hawaiian Paradise

My new shoes are off - it's time to kick-back
j. smith photo (c) 2011

It's a kick-back Hawaiian Saturday . . .the kind where you do what you have to do early and then head to the beach with a book.

We try to read novels set in the locales we are visiting while on the road and we've been reading some great ones these last few weeks.  If you need a good beach book, try one of these:

Moloka'i by Alan Brennert (he also wrote Honolulu) who takes the reader back a century or so to experience a little known time and place, the Leper Colony on Moloka'i.  As the author's afterward indicates the research materials are vast and he's created characters based on historical accounts.  It's been a long time since a book has moved me to tears but the story he created of  Rachel Kalama was so beautifully told that I did cry at the ending.

Best South Sea Stories, edited by two University of Hawaii professors, was calling out from a shelf at Border's in downtown Waikiki.  The collection of short stories put together by  A. Grove Day and Carl Stroven are whisking me to South Sea islands aboard sailing vessels of all shapes and sizes in tales written by the likes of James A. Michener, W. Somerset Maugham, Herman Melville and Jack London, just to name a few.

And of course, a trip to Hawaii isn't complete without reading of the adventures of the rotund Chinese police detective, Charlie Chan.  This trip we've followed his work on a case in the last book of the series written by Earl Derr Biggers' Keeper of the Keys.

We found Love Finds You in Lahaina, Hawaii at our nearby Costco.  The title would have normally turned me off, had it not been written by Bodie Thoene of the husband and wife writing, research team Bodie and Brock Thoene (pronounced Tay-nee), I am eager to start it before we leave.  The duo introduced me to Prague and Vienna in another series of historical novels they wrote.  They have spent each spring for most of their adult lives writing and teaching in Hawaii.

Hula Babe, Beach Boy and Honu

We'd been hoping this year to see Honu, as we've named the sea turtle who we watched swimming in a nearby lagoon last year. Honu is the Hawaiian word for turtle, by the way, not just some clever name we gave the big guy.  And our recent stormy weather has kept the wave action so high that we'd about given up on seeing our old friend.

Wednesday morning we had a calm - before the storm - in a manner of speaking and we set off to explore a new-to-us lagoon a bit further down the road.  Our new discovery was reached by a sandy beach access path between the private Campbell Estate and Paradise Cove luau headquarters at Ko Olina, on O'ahu's west coast.

The lagoon is one of three natural lagoons on the property - we'd just never gotten to it on earlier visits.The crescent sand beach was nearly empty - only two other couples and a family of four - all of whom were busy watching Honu! 

Honu came up to meet Beach Boy
j.smith photo, (c) 2010

It may have been our same Honu or a distant cousin - whatever the case he was a 3-legged honu, unlike the turtle we watched last year. I am happy to report that all we tourists obeyed the rules posted on beach to stay back and not bother the turtles. 

Honu hadn't read the signs:  he swam right up to us . . .sending children screaming from the water and keeping the rest of us entertained by his curiosity.

A Sea Foam Saturday

Okay, so I admit it, we haven't yet toured Pearl Harbor and I haven't been to the Polynesian Cultural Center since 1979 when my girlfriend and I rode TheBus around the island and made a stop there.

With the laid-back pace and so many things calling out to do, it just seems we can't get it all fit into the schedule while on O'ahu. 

Sometimes hours can slip away during what started as a quick stop at the beach. Like Saturday. We stopped to admire the waves breaking against the shore on Yokohama Beach.  It has been somewhat stormy in this part of the world so the waves were spectacular.

The next thing we knew, we were barefoot and walking the beach letting sea foam bathe both our feet and our souls.

Ever spent time like that?  It is amazing.



 

Sea foam at Yokohama Beach Park - O'ahu
j. smith photo (c) 2011



Songs of Sunrise and Sunset

We have a symphony playing each day precisely at 6:30 a.m. and again at 6:30 p.m.  It heralds in the pink sky of morning and the blaze of the sun as it sets out over the Pacific.



Ko Olina sunset
J. Smith photo (c) 2011

 It is the symphony of Mina birds who flock by the dozens to two 'garbage trees' (named so by the groundskeepers because of the leaves that perpetually fall from them) in the gardens outside our Marriott Vacation Club at Ko Olina.

While on a horticultural tour we learned that Marriott had once tried devices in the trees to discourage the birds from singing their songs, so they wouldn't disturb the guests. . .the tour participants were aghast. 

Can you imagine being in the tropics and not hearing the songs of the birds?