Auld Lang Syne ~ 2011

"We'll take a cup of kindness yet

for auld lang syne. . .

Joel and I set out to enlarge our world through our travels in 2010.  And one of the most interesting trips we have taken has been through the blogosphere thanks to all of you who've dropped by TravelnWrite.  We have had  visitors -- in many cases -- repeat visitors, from some 60+ countries spanning the globe from Russia to Romania; the United Kingdom to the United Arab Emirates; from Hong Kong to Hungary.

We only know the countries from which you have come; all other details about you are unknown.  However, just seeing the dot on the ClustrMap on the blog's homepage or on Google map pages, we feel we have a new friend in the world.  Of course, we ponder who you are and about your life and your travels.  As I've written before we are interested in not only places, but the people who are the real  'spirit of place' .

To the many of you who've taken time to write either a comment or emails to us - we thank you for your kindness. Your positive responses and great suggestions are most appreciated. 

Come along with us in 2011 and stay in touch - send a tip, tell us a tale.    And Happy New Year!

Poros: The Perfect Greek Taverna

In 1963 a childhood trip to the movies in Yakima, Washington introduced me to Greece.

It was Walt Disney's "Moonspinners" that sparked my love affair with Greece and firmly placed it high on my 'to visit someday' list.  Luckily, our travels there in recent years have confirmed this country is as enchanting as I believed it to be so many years ago. I am spellbound at the sight of it's old windmills.  Watching a line of working burros lumber past, I whisper,  'just like the movie'. 

The one thing that hadn't met my idealized expectations was a 'movie-perfect' Greek taverna:

You know, it's the kind of family-owned place where the owners make you feel like you'd eaten there for years, the food is home-made; a place where the owner sings Greek songs, maybe does a little Zorba toe-tapping (because he is moved to do so, not as part of a tourist show). Oh yes, of course, the owner needs to be a fisherman as well to complete this idyllic place I sought out.

This fall we found my 'perfect' Greek taverna!

Apagio Taverna run by Liz and Spyros Papadopoulou on the Poros waterfront actually exceeded my expectations because not only did it meet all my requirements, but Spyros is also an artist.

Spyros caught this guy in the morning
and served him to us that night

The food here was so good, the warmth of welcome so sincere and the place filled with such a joie de vivre that we returned three of the four last nights we spent on Poros (and skipped one night because we 'had' to make one last visit to our gyros place, written about in the previous post.)

Each night was the same:  a warm greeting from Spyros and Liz, time spent telling us about the fish he'd caught earlier in the day, then we were left to leisurely ponder the day's list of homemade offerings while munching from a basket of fresh baked bread and sipping wine poured from the small pitcher in which it was served.  Spyros hummed. . .sometimes he sang, he stretched out his arms, snapping his fingers and doing a little dance while we continued to ponder our order. And occasionally we'd hear him raise his voice in the kitchen - it all added to the ambiance.

"Our" table was next to the art display

His paintings which filled the wall were inspirations he had while out fishing.  

And each night we reluctantly left after a few hours of dining and conversation with not only our bodies nourished, but our souls as well.  Hugs and kisses were in order as we departed on our last evening. We told them we would be back. . .and, of that I am sure!

Photos:  Were taken by Jackie Smith, 2010, permission required for reuse. Zorba dance is a link to YouTube.com If you like that clip, we recommend getting the movie; it is great!.

"It's About What You Leave Behind"

For us, travel is as much about people as it is places.  As 2010 comes to a close we recall some of those incredible folks and the fascinating conversations that we 've had with them as they went about their day-to-day lives.  Each encounter has enriched not only our travel experiences but our lives as well. . .

We were off to indulge in some of our favorite gyros at a place in Poros just around the corner from the Hotel Manessi. We were nearing the end of our stay on this special island only an hour by fast ferry from Athens.  Time enough for one more gyro dinner before we left. 

On this particular evening we had more than good food - we had an art display next to our sidewalk table. And even better, an opportunity to meet the artist who sat sketching, surrounded by his finished pieces.

I was taken by one of his prints, a night scene of Poros, as it looked exactly as the city had the night before under a full moon.  I purchased it for 20E and kicked myself for having left the camera in the room as it would have been great to take his photo.  "Not to worry," he assured me, "if I am not dead, I will be here tomorrow."



Me and my artist  friend Vasilas Poriotis
Joel Smith photo, (c) 2010

 The next day's early afternoon downpour had me fearing that Vasilas Poriotis may not have opened his portable gallery, but there he was in the late afternoon under one of the restaurant's sprawling umbrellas; sketching away, framed by his finished pieces.  With photos taken we took him up on his suggestion to sit awhile and visit. (His fluent English he credits to the Greek school system and his one-time marriage to an English woman).

 As we sat at the edge of the busy harbor front road, Poriotis, described himself as a "low-art" self-taught artist whose finely detailed work features buildings and street scenes. We chatted about his work and his life, both of which focus predominately on this Greek island.

As our visit came to an end, we told him that we hoped to return to Poros in the near future and hoped to find him still there.  He used his "if I am not dead. . ." phrase again, but this time added:

"I am not focused on the end - I am not afraid of it when it comes. . .it is what you leave behind that matters," and with a sweeping gesture over his work, added, "and I have left something behind. "It is important to leave something behind."

MERRY CHRISTMAS!

No Matter how you say it, from  Mele Kalikimaka to Feliz Navidad~
No matter what you are celebrating~ 
Happy Boxer Day, Hanukkah, Kwanzaa, St. Lucia Day, Three King's Day, Las Posadas and Omisoka. . . (just to name a few)

Planters Inn - Savannah
J. Smith photo - (c) 2010

We are sending you our wishes for a joyous celebration of your special holiday
 where ever you are in the world this season ~
Jackie and Joel

Some good ol' Southern Cookin'

So intent were we on the street map that we didn't hear the Savannah police officer come up behind us.

"Can I help you folks?" he asked, looking towards our map. When Joel replied that we were trying to find Angel's Barbeque, (912 W. Oglethorpe Lane, 912-495-0902) the officer looked up from the map, took a good look at us and said, "We don't get a lot of tourists looking for Angel's."

And that's exactly why we wanted to go there. 

It had been recommended by a fellow at the Savannah Bee Company (another favorite stop of ours at 104 W. Broughton) as a place 'where the locals go' and that's exactly what we had in mind. 

Angel's Barbeque - Savannah
Jackie Smith photo, (c) 2010

Even with the officer's directions, we could have missed the unadorned store front on a small alleyway had it not been for a bright yellow banner that read "BBQ" and a stack of firewood in front of the otherwise unremarkable building. 

Angel's Barbeque
Jackie Smith photo, (c) 2010

We got there at 2 p.m. so we snagged a couple of seats in the teeny-tiny interior and found we had a perfect spot for watching the parade of locals coming for take-out.   We were stuffed when we split an Angel's Special sandwich that was piled so high with pork and cole slaw we used forks to eat it. Cost $6. 

At the other end of the spectrum we dined one evening at 700 Drayton Restaurant at The Mansion on Forsyth Park. The setting was exquisite and the food. . .oh my. . .the food!  Yummy!!!  We began with salads and then the waiter placed before each of us the largest pork chops I do believe I've ever seen.  The melt-in-your-mouth desserts were wasted on us as we could only nibble on them. It was the most expensive meal we ate while in Savannah -- $65 per person including taxes and tips -- but food quality and ambiance made it worth every penny.

And nothing will top the BLT Salad at The Olde Pinke House (I've written about this place in earlier posts) where fried green tomatoes are served atop strips of bacon and lettuce and all are topped with ranch dressing.  I could have skipped all other food there and eaten plate after plate of this salad . . .it alone would take me back to this southern city.

So tell me, if a tourist were to ask you to recommend a place where locals go in your town, where would you suggest? And knowing we have readers all over the globe I am hoping for some great insiders tips that we all can file away in our future travels file.

Favorite Airports: Savannah's Rocks!

If I were giving awards, my 'Airport of the Year Award' would go to. . .(drum roll). . .Savannah!
Well,technically it's the Savannah/Hilton Head International Airport.  But by whatever name, it has to be one of the easiest airports to navigate and I love it because it rocks!
Actually the travelers rock, using the wooden rocking chairs provided.  No joke. Wooden rocking chairs. . .in an airport?!  It was a great introduction to the Southern Hospitality that was to follow during our week long stay in Savannah.



Savannah/Hilton Head Airport
Jackie Smith photo, 2010

 Whoever designed the place is to be commended and whoever furnished it is to be complimented.  Between the concourse and check in counters/baggage claim areas, you pass through a large open area designed to look like a southern square, made user-friendly with wooden park benches and rocking chairs.  They even have rocking chairs placed periodically along the concourse. And security was a breeze - no long lines  in the early afternoon when we passed through.

Another favorite airport is Honolulu's. Maybe it is the warm ocean breezes that envelop you as you step out of the Jetway in this open-air terminal or the aloha greeting of hula dancers who often perform in the airport's common area, but it also has a welcoming ambiance.  Its Asian-themed garden, a lush green oasis in the middle of the airport, provides a last-chance stroll through the tropics for those waiting to board flights.

The shops were so enticing when we landed at Amsterdam's Schiphol Airport in October that I actually asked to go there early the next morning to make sure I had shopping time prior to boarding our flight to Seattle.  Flower shops sell tulip bulbs in kaleidoscope of colors and quantities and those stores with blue and white porcelain were irresistible. And then. . .while exploring the stores, we discovered the airport's casino. Yes, a real casino, where Joel is already planning to spend his time the next time I go 'shopping'.

All travelers have a supply of airport horror stories. But what about the good airports? Do you have a favorite? Tell us what makes it so.  Are there any that you'd like to put in the 'losers' category?  Tell us about them below:

Stocking Stuffers for Travelers

There are a number of items we don't leave home without when we travel. . .all are small and would make great stocking-stuffers for that hard-to-shop-for-traveler on your list.

They are simple things that make life on the road just a tad bit easier and sometimes cheaper as well.  So if you are about to make a last-minute shopping dash, consider:

* A Picnic Pack:  A half dozen small plastic food storage bags, a packet of fancy cocktail napkins, a wine/beer bottle opener and a small cutting knife. (The knife and the wine bottle opener go in the checked baggage).
(We buy cheese and fruit and a bottle of local wine at farmer's markets and have picnics in our room or along the way, storing the extra fruit and cheese in the bags).

* Souvenir Savers: Wine bottle shaped bubble wrap protectors. (Available at wine stores.) These work well for protecting wine and other glass containers in your suitcase.
(I've packed honey and olive oil jars in them to bring home).

* Gadgets and Gizmo's: Roll of adhesive tape, small sewing kit with some thread in basic colors, and a needle and small pair of scissors. (The scissors go in checked luggage.)
After being on a cruise ship in the middle of the Atlantic and needing a needle and thread with neither housekeeping nor the on-board store having them, we've since always brought our own.)

*The Laundry Basket: Plastic clothes hangers, two or three will do, and a half dozen plastic clothes pins  and  a couple of those tiny boxes of laundry soap (usually found at local drugstores in the U.S.).
(I've calculated that on our longer cruises and hotel stays we have saved at least $75 to $100 per trip by simply doing a bit of hand laundry. With a pair of socks or underwear coming in a $2 a pair, using a laundry service over a long-period of time can be pricey.)

* Take Note:  Light-weight, small notebooks (journal type or those with tear out pages) and pens always come in handy. (These can be found at drugstores and bookstores)

*S*** Happens:  To be honest, sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't, when you travel.  A packet of Imodium or other such brand and a small bottle of stool softeners will come in handy for either eventuality - and could end up being one of the most used gifts you tuck into the traveler's stocking. Along that same theme, travel-sized toilet paper packets -- especially for women travelers -- are sometimes worth their weight in gold. (all can be found in drugstores in the U.S.) 

 Got more gift ideas for travelers?  Use the comment link below to share your tips:

Savannah: a Strollin' and Stoppin' Town

I beg to differ with those who told us Savannah was a good walking town.  You don't walk in Savannah - not if you want to savor the full effect of its historic districts - you stroll and you stop, then stroll a bit more and stop again.



Strolling through a Savannah Square
Jackie Smith photo

 My photos -- for that matter even the tourist brochures -- can't capture the magical ambiance that a slow-paced stroll provides of this historic river-front city that was founded in the midst of the Georgia wilderness by British General James Oglethorpe in 1733.

Strolling was also a good way for us to justify some of those hefty, mouth-watering meals we were eating.  We spent hours wandering through the downtown commercial area and adjoining tree-lined neighborhoods. Yet, we didn't even scratch the surface, making it to only half of the 22 remaining (there were 24) historic squares.  These squares, designed originally as gathering places for those whose homes, churches and businesses bordered them, continue to be perfect spots for finding a bench and 'sittin' a spell'.  No two squares are alike aside from their lush flower and foliage beds and the dense canopies of massive Spanish moss draped trees.

Two squares became regular pathways for us and in each we were serenaded daily by street musicians. One flutist played an almost haunting background tune and anther sang to no one in particular as he strummed his guitar. They were always in the exact same spot in the exact same square. 

One evening en route to The Mansion on Forsyth Park for dinner we cut through a square where Santa was greeting folks, cider was being poured  while a baritone sang Christmas tunes to a small gathering of folks. 

Giant oak trees filter sunlight in Savannah's Squares
Jackie Smith photo 2010

From a practical standpoint:  Walking the tree-lined streets of the historic streets could be hazardous to your health as you would be going too fast and trip over the uneven walkways that rise and fall as decades of tree roots dictate. By slowly strolling those same walkways you give yourself time to look at the beauty of the place and not where your next step will take you.

(Note:  If you can't make it to Savannah click the 'historic squares' link for a virtual tour of a couple of them. And if you aren't able to stroll, take one of the many guided tours available - horsedrawn carriages or motorized trolleys will take you on a variety of tours from historic mansions the late night ghost seeking).