On Foot or Burro? That is the question.

On the island of Hydra (Greeks pronounce that, 'eee-dra') in the Saronic Islands off the Peloponesse coast, there are no motorized vehicles - except for two small garbage trucks.  So when you step off the ferry onto its near perfect crescent-shaped dock you have two choices for getting to your hotel: on foot or burro. 

              Burro loaded with rebar in Hydra

Unlike Santorini where the burro chain greets the cruise boats and photos are taken of passengers riding up the steep hillside, here the burro is serious business.  They haul produce and people, lumber, dirt, supplies and their handlers sit sidesaddle leading their pack-string along the waterfront loading the items in preparation of heading up the steep, narrow pathways to the town's interior.

Our mainland roadtrip took us to Hydra for a night's stay Sunday.  We had planned to stay in another town on the coast but as with our philosophy of travel, when the opportunity presents itself, take it.  We passed a sign pointing through an olive grove that read "Hydra".  We followed the roadway and found ourselves at a tiny taxi ferry dock, and thought,'why not?'

We parked near the olive grove, packed on overnight bag and hopped aboard the 16-passenger taxi that whisked us across the channel for a delightful evening and morning visit to an island we would otherwise have missed.

In case you are wondering, we walked to the pansion where we stayed for 35E a night. It was an easy walk, not far from the harbor.

It Just Doesn't Get Any Better. . .a Sunday Drive

"It just doesn't get any better!" has become an almost daily declaration of mine since heading to Greece following our Black Sea cruise.  Each new destination has me proclaiming, "it won't be better than this. . .view, moment, monument. . ." and then each new place proves that it can!

Sunday as we headed back across the inland and along the coast from Nafplion I think might have been one of those days that just don't get any better.

Our route from Nafplio took us through a series of small towns and miles of lush agricultural area; a checkerboard  of deep-green orange- and silver-gray olive groves. Rolling hillsides and valleys gave way to steep mountain peaks that we ascended on the twisty two-lane highway that took us back to the coastline we'd left five days before.

 It was an easy and quiet time on the roadway as Athenians hadn't yet begun their treks back to the big city so we had the road to ourselves, passing only a few orchard tractors and trucks along the way.  We stopped to admire the views - as good as Tuscany, we declared, if not better -- and that is saying a lot for the two of us who love all places Italian..

Peloponnese Potpourri: People and Places

                             Nafplio from the Fortress

It is a sunny Saturday afternoon in Nafplion and the Square below our room has come to life with weekend visitors from Athens.  The cafes are full, a game of soccer is being played by local children on one side of the marble-paved square and a street performer is entertaining other children and cafe patrons on the other side.  Laughter and conversations fill the air.

There's been so much to see and do in this area that we've used Nafplion as a base (staying five nights) and have taken day trips by car and explored the town on foot. . .driving in old Nafplion is a tights squeeze at best so we park at the port's free lot and walk a few block to our hotel (which is in a pedestrian only area anyway).

Americans Among Us

We realized a few days ago that we had gone for nearly a week without seeing another American; in fact that last time we had spoken to Americans was when we called out goodbye to our Florida friends at the cruise ship in Piraeus. 

Our first night here we met three delightful young American women who are studying in Athens and who were in town for a four-day study of the archaeological sites nearby.  Monika from USC, Soula from Michigan and Clare from Notre Dame gave us an introduction to the sites that we would be seeing and we had some good ol' football -- not soccer -- but football, talk from home.  We saw two of our trio atop the cliff at the fortress the next day and had hoped to cross paths again but it didn't happen.  "Yassis" to you all - hope to see you again one day.

Street scenes

People often ask us about places and begin with, "But what is there to see?"  Our short answer is "Life." And one of our favorite from this trip is the nightly scocer game that beings about 6 p.m. on the Square.  A group of tousle-topped boys gather and anywhere from one to three soccer balls appear.  The boys appear to be between the ages of 6 and 10 but often a grown man walking by will take a kick or two and last night a toddler - a bit bigger than the ball - wove his way in and out of the big boys.  It made for great entertainment - we can hardly wait for tonight's game!

In the Land of Legends and Myths: Mycenae

                                                   Lion's Gate - Mycenae

We are traveling through the land of myth and history.  The Peloponnese countryside -- less than 200 kilometers from Athens -- is awash in history; so much so, that we've had to pace ourselves by taking one 'time travel trip' each day back into history. 

We are not history buffs, nor do we know that much about Greek mythology.  But when you visit a place with ramparts dating to 1350BC -- yes, that is BC!-- there's no other word for it than: overwhelming. 

Once thought to be found only in legends and poetry, Mycenae was the most powerful city-state in Greece up to 1100 BC when it was destroyed by fire.  The site was discovered in the late 1800's - confirming the existence of a real city and people.

We entered the old city through the Lion Gate -- pictured above -- that dates back to 1240 BC and is considered the oldest sample of monumental sculpture in Europe.  The remains of the city's granary still stand as well a burial grounds and artists quarters.  Traces of grain were found on ceramics excavated there and now on display in the museum to the side of the city.  Finished beadwork, uncut ivory and gold leaf were found in the artists' quarters.

According to Greek mythology Mycenae was founded by Perseus, son of Zeus and Dianae.  He employed Cyclops, mythical beings from Asia to build the city thus the style of architecture is called cyclopean. 

The museum off to the side houses display cases filled with ceramics and art found at the site.
The entry fee was 8E per person which provided access to the city and the museum.  There are restroom facilities on site as well as a snack bar.  And numerous fellow visitors were using canes to get around but easily managed the well maintained - but sometimes steep - stairways.

999 Steps Up the Wall

The Venetian Fortress towers over Nafplion, another reminder of the time the area was under their rule. Its thick wall provided protection from invaders but these days the gates are open and the invaders come in the form of tourists.

                   Stairway to the fortress

There are two ways to get to the fortress:  by vehicle or on foot. On foot means a climb up 999 stairs that zig-zag up the face of the cliff that I have pictured at the start of this post.  Yes, we walked. 999 up and 999 down. . .and that just got us to the fortress, then we climbed more steps and ramps that criss-cross the interior and lead to jaw-dropping views. Tourist information varied, one place said 850 stairs and others said 999 - I counted. The bigger number is correct.

We did it with several 'breathing stops' on the way up. People who suffer vertigo might not want to make the climb, but then they shouldn't be going to the fortress if they don't like heights.. I have to be truthful and add that we both had wobbly knees by the time we returned to the roadway at the base of the cliff.

Each time we do something like this we comment that it is 'pretty good for people our ages'.  That brag was tempered by a man we met heading up as we were heading down.  The elderly white-haired man (much older than us) was dressed in slacks, dress shirt, sweater vest, jacket and used a cane.  "Bon Jour, Madam" he called out to me as I passed.

A Room with a View

             Syntagmatos Square from our room

Sometimes, we've decided, it is simply luck. 

No amount of research can turn up a hotel as perfect as one that you simply happen upon.  Such is the case with our 'room with a view' in Nafplion. 

After finally getting a rental car (thanks to our new friend, Dimitri on Poros, who managed to rouse Pops  Rental Car across the channel when no one else could) we set out in our small Renault on the coastal route, then heading inland for a bit and arriving about 6 pm in the  port town of Nafplion (also called Nafplio and Nafplia).

We had had mixed reviews of Nafplion prior to our arrival:  a German couple told us to skip it, they were so disappointed; yet, the tourist brochure said it was a 'fairy land'.  We are voting for the latter now that we've been here a day - in fact ,we plan to stay here a few days longer.

This city, once the capital of Greece, was under Venetian rule many centuries ago.  The old city, where we are staying, has such a heavy Italian influence that its easy to forget you are in Greece - as evidenced by the town square we overlook. Bouganvillas drape the small cobbled side roads that lead to the main square we overlook..

We happened upon the Hotel Athina on the corner of Syntagmatos Square and inquired about availability - although with its location we expected the rate to be astronomical. . .wrong. They offered a room with breakfast for 50E a night and as we climbed the stairs (no elevator here) Joel asked if any rooms might look out on the square. 

Not only do we have a room with a view - but two views, one balcony looks directly over the square and the other looks back on the Venetian fortress (more on that soon).  Yes, the price is 50E a night. 

And I am heading out to the balcony soon to sip some Greek white wine that we bought today at the farmers market for 2E a liter from the little lady who makes it.  Yes, sometimes, it is simply luck.

Off to the Peloponnese

   Spetses harbor with the storm approaching

After a downpour on Monday that kept us an extra day in Spetses, our day today dawned bright and sunny and we are off to the Peloponnese, mainland Greece -- we think anyway.

We will backtrack to the island of Poros, hop the ferry across the channel and hopefully find a car rental that is open on the other side and if not hop the local bus with our intended destination being Nafplion.  I am adding intended because we are winging it this portion of the trip. . .the ferry we planned to take this morning was cancelled due to weather and "Pops Car Rental" doesn't answer the phone.

We've learned to be flexible on our travels - we will go where we go today and I'll write from there when we get there.

Rain-soaked, sun-drenched Saronic Islands

                             Sea and sky blend somedays

We set out after our cruise for Aegina, (aye-ena) the closest of the Saronic Islands to Pireaus on a day so gray that the sky and the sea merged into a bleak panorama and arrived at its charming harbor town under threatening skies.  The skies cleared and we spent two nights in a charming 200 year old mansion converted to hotel some 25 years ago.

We chose Spetses island for our next destination - about two hours from Aegina by slow ferry and we set out on a day as gloriously spectacular as our previous trip had been gray.  And we have fallen under the charms of this place and will spend our fourth night here tonight before setting out to explore the mainland.

Saturday afternoon we explored the island on foot - 9.5 miles later -- we had crested its highest peak and  walked among olive groves and pine forests.  This is the island where author John Fowles lived and worked when he wrote his epic, The Magus.

We have had sun and blue skies and last night a storm moved in that lit the skies with lightening strikes, thunder boomed and rain came down in sheets.  Today the rain continues.  I sit in the lobby of the one hotel still open that has internet access -- the only woman in the lobby, by the way and certainly the only one with a computer -- awaiting Joel who has visited the local barber.

We are staying in a charming hotel for 35E per night - having been convinced by the owner, Petros, when we stepped off the ferry that it was a great place.  He was right - we hope to return someday.