Going that Extra Mile

For decades the area of Greece where we live - the Peloponnese Mani --may have been one of its best kept secrets.  Primitive roads that led over the towering Taygetos Mountains deterred even the most determined travelers.

Taygetos Mountains a backdrop to the Mani

Long-time locals tell of the hours it took to navigate that harrowing route between Athens and Kalamata. 

The road to our slice of the Peloponnese

Nowadays those heading our way -- either driving rental cars or riding a bus -- travel on a modern four-lane divided highway from Athens to our Kalamata in about three hours. 

Long distance bus travel is popular here

We even have seasonal flights arriving at Kalamata's International Airport from Athens as well as a dozen or more European gateway cities.

Agios Nikolaos, Mani's gem of a fishing village

Yet even with the ease of getting here, we have accepted the reality that many of those who say and who've said for years that they will come visit 'soon', 'one of these days' or 'someday' will likely never make it to our bit of Grecian paradise.  

But some have been serious. They have gone the extra mile, both literally and figuratively, this last year to pay us and the area a visit. They've traveled thousands of miles to reach Greece and then made it a point to get to our village. I've told their stories in Facebook posts as the visits happened; today I wanted to introduce them to you:

Broken and Bruised They Came

The winners of this year's 'going above and beyond' effort to get here are Hanna and Hakan from Washington State. We met 'Dr. Hanna' (as we still call her) two decades ago when she operated an in-home veterinarian practice in Kirkland and cared for our Fur Kids. We've stayed in touch via Facebook and she and her husband were among those who said 'someday' and meant it.   

Love these two and their 'will travel' attitude

They planned to be here the last week of October, right after a bike (the pedal kind) tour in Albania. Four days before their scheduled arrival Hanna contacted me saying they'd crashed their bikes and were being treated in a hospital for breaks and bruises. No, she assured me, they didn't want to cancel the visit here, they just needed to delay their arrival by a day.  

Doctors Melina and Hanna - angels at Hades

With one in a cast and the other in a sling, we changed plans for outings but got in several good visits and toured the area. I'd long hoped that our Dr. Hanna and our current veterinarian, Dr. Melina, would get a chance to meet during that visit. I've often described these two professionals as being 'angels on earth'. I had my hope fulfilled as evidenced by the photo above! 

From Mexico to Mani

We've known our friend Dita since we met in a small fishing village called Bucerias, Mexico, just north of Puerto Vallarta, in the 1990's. We were all homeowners in that small village. . .now, oh so many decades ago.

A toast in Nafplio to a long friendship - and her visit

Our friendship has lasted through all the changes that come with the passing of time. Mexico became a memory for us all. She is another who said 'someday' about Greece and meant it.

Last spring she and a girlfriend took time out from exploring Portugal and Spain to fly to Athens, then travel to the Mani.  We did a road trip with them through our area of the Peloponnese (not realizing at the time that our curving, climbing, roads were not among their favorite things). They were great sports though. Our time together passed too quickly, but Dita says she will return - and we hope she does! 

Facebook Friends come to Visit

Back sometime before COVID turned the world and travel upside down, Suzi, who lives in Australia, and I were planning to meet during a future trip of hers to Greece. She and I had met on some Greek focused Facebook pages and quickly became FB friends.  

From Australia they came and we are so pleased they did!

Then COVID shut down Greece in what we thought a pretty severe manner. It was nothing compared to the shutdown of Australia.  But still we communicated and promised each other that one day we would meet. (I suspect we each wondered if we were kidding ourselves.)

But this fall it happened - we enveloped each other in bear hugs in the big parking lot of Agios Nikolaos and took up the conversation as though we'd seen each other a week before.  I know there are many out there who don't see a value to Facebook, but I am ever so thankful for it as I have some pretty amazing friends now as result of meeting on that social media platform!

From Australia and Canada - new friends!

Suzi and her husband, Norbert, are among them!  We had lunch, we met for drinks, we dined together and laughed together during the time they were here. Their time in the area overlapped with that of our Canadian friends, Mark and Angie (another friendship that came about thanks to this blog and continued via Facebook).  The two couples met over dinner in the village with us and it was if we'd all known each other for years. The best part is that everyone is returning next year!

Church in Milea, a village tucked into the hills near us

It wasn't until after Philanthi, who lives in America's southeast, and I became Facebook friends a couple years ago, that The Scout and I were to meet her dad, Nikos, who lives in Milea, the village just a few miles from us. 

Philanthi and I pose with our husbands

Although Philanthi visits here regularly, I doubt if we would ever have met had we not connected on one of the Facebook pages devoted to life in Greece. We commented on those pages, then personal messages led to our Facebook friendship. 

During a visit to see her dad, she and her husband, The Scout and I finally met this fall.  Again, a greeting, a hug and we started chattering as if we'd known each other for years - thanks to social media, I guess we have!

A hug from Nikos always makes my day!

As for her dad, Nikos: it turns out we all frequented the same restaurant for years. We officially met the next time we were all at that restaurant thanks to Philanthi cluing us all in about each other. He is a delightful nonagenarian, who'd lived in the U.S for some time before returning to live in his ancestral village a few miles away. 

 I should add that Nikos is a Facebook friend of mine now as well!

Agios Nikolaos at night

My Facebook friend George and I have brought to life the phrase 'small world'. He and his wife live in Eastern Washington State - a hundred miles or so from where The Scout and I have planted our American roots.  It is unlikely we would ever have met there.

As this small world story goes, George and his wife are coworkers of a cousin of mine. Apparently one day while on the topic of Greece, my name came up. . . that led to the blog, Facebook and a social media friendship. 

George wrote that they were coming to explore Greece, as they ponder the idea of someday living here. During that visit this fall we finally met face-to-face. George, his wife and his dad made a trip to the Mani as part of their trip to Greece.  

Sunday with George, his wife and his dad

Again, as with Philanthi, and Suzi, we began with introductions and hugs in the village parking lot, then launched into non-stop chatter until they had to return to Kalamata.

All these friends, having gone the extra mile, are among our year's highlights. We thank them for the effort they made to get here and for the joy, laughter and conversation they brought with them. Hopefully, their stories have inspired those of you still thinking about it, to take the leap in the coming year. 

Wherever you go, we wish you safe travels and opportunities to make new discoveries and friends.  Until the next time, thanks for being with us ~ 

Just a 48 Hour Greek Getaway

Sometimes even when you are an expat living in your chosen area of paradise, you need a getaway from the routine.  Even a brief change of scenery makes for a brighter attitude and a shot of energy.

A Greek getaway less than two hours from home

By the first week of November, a change of scenery from that to be had at our Stone House on the Hill in the Mani was definitely overdue:  

We'd (knock-on-wood) gotten rid of the rat who had played havoc on our car's electrical system, we'd confirmed there would be no harvest of our shriveled olive crop, we'd cleared the dozens of dead plants in my Mediterranean garden, which like the olive crop were also casualties of the summer's prolonged heat and drought. And our computer was in the repair shop. 

Good olives top, our olives bottom

It had simply been far too long since these two vagabonds had headed out on any just-for-fun getaways.

A part of the Westin lobby, Costa Navarino

Our destination was our 'go to' getaway resort located a mere 38 miles, yet a world away from our expat home in the Greek Peloponnese. Costa Navarino, a resort with four award-winning golf courses and an equal number of 5-star hotels is located on the Peloponnesian point we see from our home.  It is on that point's west side, less than two-hours' drive from our home. It is ridiculously close, so how could it have been more than two years since we last took advantage of this nearby luxe?

Golf enthusiasts in November at Navarino Hills course

Nowadays the tourist touts and jetsetter publications paint a picture of the resort as being a playground for famous super stars, a hideaway for the rich and famous.  But I can assure you, based on the several visits we've made there in the last decade, that there are far more regular folks, like us, who make up the majority of guests either seeking a quick getaway or a round or two of golf amid the swanky digs.   

A Room with a View

The resort accommodation is a mix of privately owned villas and hotels - The Mandarin Oriental, The W Hotel, Romanos, and our favorite, The Westin Hotel. Admittedly, while room rates can go off the charts in the height of summer (as has become the case throughout Greece), the end of the season rates are more affordable. 

The Westin was the first hotel we stayed at in this Greek-owned resort and habit keeps us choosing it when we return. 

The Westin bedroom and bathroom in the studio we were assigned

Two of the hotels had already closed for the season, as had many of the restaurants but there were plenty of places still open and operating. And with a Greek village just minutes away from the resort and the bustling town of Pylos a few miles away, there were plenty of choices for traditional food and drink.

Autumn in the air

We had managed to tack some errands in Kalamata on to this trip, which meant we didn't arrive at the resort until early on a Tuesday afternoon. Our room was ready and no lines at check-in. Although we didn't spend much time in the room that afternoon with all of the outdoor spaces calling out to explore.

The grounds are sprawling and are beautifully landscaped with local flora and fauna. It didn't take us long to head out for a stroll through the gardens and then ultimately, to the beach. 

Nice to see green again after this year's drought 

The resort, encompassing Navarino Bay and Navarino Dunes, has more than 1.2 million endemic shrubs of different species.  Walking through the grounds is like touring a botanical garden. Ninety percent of the land is covered with pre-existing or planted greenery.

And to keep those areas green without taking away from local water supplies, the resort has an elaborate water management system that includes water reservoirs with a capacity of just under 1.2 million liters of water for use on the development.

Decades old olive trees shad swimmers at this pool, named for them

More than 7,000 olive trees have been moved and replanted by the resort developers. The trees are prolific throughout the grounds, and I can tell you, they are being pampered compared to those outside the resort. 

Olive trees are showcased throughout the resort

We do think of them as part of Greece's national treasure, so they deserve to be well taken care of.

Ages old olive trees stand as sentries at the front entrance

We are having an incredibly beautiful autumn in the Peloponnese this year. During our stay the weather was so temperate, hovering at the low 70F's that it made sunning ourselves (wearing blue jeans and long sleeves) on the beach the perfect way to while away a couple of hours.  Other guests, clad in swimsuits, sunned and bobbed in the ocean. 

Beach bliss in November 

I think the last time we went to the beach in Greece was during our last trip to Costa Navarino. Like that time, we again had such a pleasant, kick-back afternoon! The stretch of beach we were on is a protected area of the resort as it is a breeding ground for the Carreta sea turtles.  We sipped wine in the late afternoon because the beach restaurant and bar close at sunset. . . for the sake of the turtles.

Wine on the beach - no better place to drink it

Lights are turned off so as not to disturb the turtles, who come and lay their eggs in the spring with hatching taking place in summer. The early closure though continues throughout the season to assure safety to the turtles.

Photo taken in the Costa Navarino's Resort  Nature Center

While the developers point to their sustainable practices and a focus on environment, one of my favorite things about this place is their commitment to animal welfare.  They actually have created a shelter for homeless dogs on the property and have a paid staff member coordinating volunteers and the efforts and events to get animals adopted. A visit to the on-property shelter is always a treat.

Navarino Pets - well worth a visit while at the resort

Since our last visit a new lobby display showcases those seeking a fur-ever home.  If you aren't ready to adopt one of the animals introduced on the continuous video display, there is a handy donation box just below it - so you can help at any level.  

Fresh from the fields enroute to Costa Navarino

The Peloponnese 'point' on which Costa Navarino is located is carpeted with grape vineyards, olive and orange groves. Truck gardens and orchards supply roadside stands with veggies and fruits to tempt visitors like us..

At Nestor's palace - recently restored archeological site

It is home to a number of historical sites, including nearby Nestor's Palace and the Venetian built, Methoni castle a bit further away. There's even a winery, open to the public and named after the legendary king of Pylos, Nestor, that can easily be reached from the resort.

Nestor Winery, home of Messinian inspired wines - some of our favorite

After wining and dining, resting and relaxing, we were back on the road again Thursday, heading to Kalamata for a few more errands before heading home. Sometimes even the shortest of getaways are all that is needed to rejuvenate the senses. I am sure we released a ton of endorphins between us during those 48 hours as we sure felt better after our stay!  

Of course, now I am wondering that a 'real trip' - one that encompasses a week or two - might do for these two old vagabonds.  Wouldn't you know? The Scout is already on it!

Costa Navarino sunsets are spectacular

Now back at our Stone House on the Hill, with the computer as rejuvenated as we are, I have plenty of tales to tell you in the coming weeks. Until then, how about you tell us where you've been.   Taken any getaways or longer trips? If so, tell us about them in the comments or shoot us an email. 

We enjoy your travel tales ~ 

Saving Time in a Bottle

Just when you become comfortable, maybe even complacent, change happens. 

In June the government issued new requirements for Greek residency permits for third-country expats, like us. 

The news was seismic in the expat community; as well could be the changes!

The game rules have changed: time out!

I liken it to changing the game rules once play has started. We are now on the field in the timeout period waiting for the referee to clarify the new rules of play so the game can begin again. 

And we are wondering if we still qualify as players or if we'll be booted.

Greek Game Changer

A seismic change in residency permit requirements

After nearly a decade of staticity, Greece's residency permit was recently overhauled.  It was lengthened from two to three years. The name changed from FIP (Financially Independent Persons) permit to the 'Residence Permit for third-country Nationals with Sufficient Resources'. 

But the most riveting change is the increase in the amount of income you must have to live in Greece.  

The joy in getting that plastic card, the permit, that lets us live in Greece

The monthly income requirement for individuals has nearly doubled, going from 2,000 to 3,500 euros ($3,824US). Two people, filing as a family, will be required to have 4,200 euros ($4,584US).  Because we originally applied as individuals we will need to show 7,000 euros a month in income.

The alternative to the increased monthly income is having stash of 72,000 euros ($78,663US) deposited in a Greek bank account (that's up from 48,000 euros or $45,089US). 

Mid-morning: tellers closed their windows despite waiting customers

The amounts are the only thing clearly defined in the new requirements. And for many expats and expat wannabes, the increases alone could put expat life out of reach. 

For others who could meet the income requirements, it will be a matter of how the proof of income is defined that determines whether or not they qualify. Must it be strictly a pension payment or will passive income, earned on investments, count? 

Greek banks aren't known for their customer service.  So that higher amount to have on deposit isn't a warm and fuzzy option for those of us who've dealt with them. Will savings accounts and investments not in Greek banks count toward the requirement?

'What if' and other questions. . .

We, and most of our American expat friends in the village, are in the midst of the permit renewal process. Applications and documentation for the previous requirements were submitted and accepted by the authorities months ago. Now we wonder if we will be required to start over, file addendums, or get grandfathered in (most unlikely of the scenarios).  

Unsettled times

Expat social get-togethers in recent weeks include a conversation or two on the 'have you heard anything about the permits?'  And occasionally we touch on - the proverbial elephant in the room - 'What if we don't qualify?'  

Needless to say, it has made for a somewhat unsettled summer in the third country expat community. (A 'third country national' is anyone who hails from a country outside Greece or the European Union). We've all had moments in which we ponder our vaguely uncertain futures. And we've all been a bit more reflective on our time here. So much so, that I've decided a song from my teenage years could be the theme song for the summer of 2024. . .

 Saving Time in a Bottle

If I could make days (in Greece) last forever. . .

Back in 1973 singer-songwriter Jim Croce sang a love song about making days last forever, making wishes come true and saving time in a bottle.  Back then, as teenagers, it seemed like days did last forever as we awaited adulthood. Why the need to bottle it? We were far too busy marking time to think about saving it. 

If I could make days last forever

If words could make wishes come true

I'd save every day like a treasure, and then

Again, I would spend them with you

I'd save every day (in the village) like a treasure. . .

Fast forward a half century and the song's lyrics are hitting home loud and clear this summer as a love song for expat life in Greece. I would fill my bottle with. . .

If I could save time in a bottle

The first thing that I'd like to do

Is to save every day 'til eternity passes away

Just to spend them with you

. . .Time spent watching summer sunsets. . .

I'd save summer sunsets and winter storms

. . . and winter storms. . .

The village parking lot after a winter storm

Time spent traveling the backroads. . .

Backroad adventures

. . .even time spent in traffic jams. . .

Local traffic jam

Time spent in the olive grove. . .

My friend Mary and I harvest olives

. . .from harvesting in October. . .

Princess and Maggie in the olive grove

. . . to walking amid wildflowers in March, exploring with my cats. . .

The Scout and our friend Captain Antonis

Time spent with friends - both Greek and expats from other lands. . .

Fellow Americans, friends, who we'd never have met in America

 and even fellow Americans whom we'd never have known back in the States. . .

House projects included, installing a new hot water tank

Times spent making improvements to our Stone House on the Hill . . . 

Enjoying our Stone House on the Hill

. . .and times spent enjoying it. . .

                                                              But there never seems to be enough time

                                                      To do the things you want to do once you find them. . .

Make the time ~ find the time ~ enjoy

Summer's end is fast approaching, and as with every season it does seem we never have enough time to do everything we want to do.  One thing is for sure this year, we are approaching all things with a bit more reflection and appreciation.

Thanks for the time you've spent with us today and to those of you who've followed the residency journey for as long as we've been on it: your continuing interest and support is most appreciated!  

Enjoy your travels and your everyday adventures. Until next time ~