On a chilly mid-December evening, the brightly lit boat across the harbor was a clear reminder that the festive season had arrived. I say 'festive season' -- not Christmas -- because the illuminated boat was erected to honor the real Saint Nikolaos - not Santa.
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| Agios Nikolaos - patron saint of sailors |
Saint Nikolaos is the revered patron saint of sailors in Greece. For that reason, villages traditionally display a decorated boat to honor his December 6th birthday. Many keep the boat on display throughout the month making it the community's holiday centerpiece.
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| 'Tis the Season in Agios Nikolaos |
The spectacular blue and white boat is new in our village this year. Provided by the Municipality, as our regional government is called, it is the first such grand decoration we've had in the decade that we've been here. It has unofficially become the symbol of this year's holiday season.
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| A decade ago, manger scenes were the village decoration |
During our first few Christmas seasons here, villages, including ours, displayed a manger scene, similar to the one above that I photographed several years ago in the village of Kambos. Over the years, the manger gave way to a decoration or two on a light pole; one year a star, another a small boat.
During our first few Christmases here, we found decorations, wrapping paper and ribbon to be scarce. Kalamata, our big city to the north, was the place to search for such items. But the times are changing and now our local supermarket has devoted a good amount of space on both of its floors to Christmas items ranging from large artificial Christmas trees to themed salt and pepper shakers, toys and gifts.
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| Shelves of decorations at our local supermarket |
We know that along with Christmas items comes Santa. We think back again to the early years here when the village children awaited a visit from Agios Vasilis (Saint Basil) on New Year's Day as he was the one who brought a present to reward those good little boys and girls. Santa seems nowadays to have materialized as the season's lead character. The one pictured below maintained a Santa's house on the Main Square in Kalamata for weeks before Christmas. Maybe if they are lucky - or very, very good - Greek children now get presents from both.
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| Songs being sung for Santa Claus in Kalamata |
Thankfully -- to our way of thinking -- the glitz of Christmas hasn't yet overtaken the villages. Christmas Eve morning we spotted two groups of children, traveling minstrels they were, out singing Greek kalandas (carols) in the village. Hopefully they will return on the morning of New Year's Eve as well. While their efforts are usually off-tune, they spread good cheer and hope that maybe small coins or sweets will be offered for their melodies.
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| Singers at our door, a few years ago. |
Aside from that brightly lit boat, there are few decorations - certainly nothing like the bright lights and displays of Athens, Thessaloniki and other large cities. There are decorations though and we've been lucky enough to spot a few as we run errands. The one pictured below is near a small roadside shrine just outside the laundry in our neighboring village, Stoupa.
And one morning we came across the understated but seasonal decoration of oranges and pomegranates below hanging between two buildings in the village of Kardamyli.
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| Good to eat and a great decoration as well |
In Stoupa the Municipality has replaced the small lighted boat on a light post with a gigantic star that lights up at night overlooking its harbor.
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| Stoupa's star, is a backdrop for visitor's holiday photos |
Here, we are Home for the Holidays
It is here; we are home for the holidays again this year. And being home for the holidays takes on a slightly different twist when you are an expat living in a country not your own.
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| Kalamata decked out for Christmas |
Being in this new environment has gotten us out of the holiday routines we had perfected over the years. Here we've blended new behaviors with some of the traditions we brought with us from our old world.
Maybe one of the best things about holidays here is discovering how easy it is to enjoy them. We gather with friends on Christmas Eve and again on Christmas morning no longer worried that they will be busy with family commitments as was the case back in our old world.
As cliche as it may sound, the expat friends have become an extended family of sorts.
Our gatherings are unhurried affairs, stretching for hours.as there are no longer those self-imposed deadlines we attached to the holiday before. We are free to enjoy the time together. It makes for a very laid-back and relaxing experience.
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| Christmas morning tradition, photo 2022 - not as warm this year |
This year our expat friends from California hosted a happy hour at their home on a stormy Christmas Eve. It was such a relaxed affair that we ate, drank and made merry without regard to the passing of time or the storm raging outside.
By morning the weather had calmed enough we could attend another gathering of many of the same friends at the beach cafe near our home. This beach gathering just 'happens' each Christmas morning as there is no event organizer. We all show up at some point in late morning for coffee and conversation. It began so many years ago, that no one really remembers who started the tradition.
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| Christmas dinner in the village |
While back in the old world, the traditional cooking of and consuming prime rib with all the trimmings pretty much filled our Christmas Day. Here our developing tradition is to feast at one of our local eateries.
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| Second Chrismas 2024 |
Oh, there's no place like home for the holidays Cause no matter how far away you roam When you pine for the sunshine of a friendly face You can't beat home sweet home.
