That Pink Palace of the Pacific

Nowadays high-rise hotels surround the elegant old 'pink palace' as if sentinels protecting it from the modern world. 

The Pink Palace

Yet, back in its day, this hotel with its Spanish Moorish style architecture and striking pink facade, was a standout on Waikiki, the beach it has helped make famous. 

In its early years, the pink palace reigned over Waikiki

For nearly a century, The Royal Hawaiian Hotel, aka 'the Pink Palace of the Pacific', has provided a tropical-style old world elegant getaway to those who've spent time here.  

It was here that we decided to spend the last weekend of our Hawaiian getaway. More than a decade has passed since we'd last treated ourselves to a stay in this old charmer.  And in keeping with my 'carpe diem' approach to travel this year, it was time to do it again. 

The Royal Hawaiian remains a pink palace on the beach

 'Carpe Diem!' the Latin phrase for seize the day, seize the moment or seize the pleasure is my mantra about travel this year. Circumstances slowed our travels last year and it is high time to make up for lost experiences!

My welcome lei - live orchids

On the first day of February our cab driver eased past the modern high rises - The Sheraton, Royal Beach Tower and Outrigger Hotels -- and took us back in time as he followed the hotel's circular drive through one of its lush tropical gardens. In keeping with hotel tradition, we were greeted by uniformed valets who draped us with leis of welcome:  mine a necklace of fragile orchid blooms, and The Scout's a rope of kukui nuts.

Rocking chairs off the lobby face the tropical gardens

Somewhere between the lei greeting and spotting the rocking chairs just off the lobby, I knew we'd made the right decision about spending our final weekend here. A stay at the Royal Hawaiian, for that matter, any hotel on Waikiki is not inexpensive whether you are spending currency or accumulated hotel points (which we were). Tourism isn't quite back to pre-Covid days, but it is robust, and Waikiki continues to be one of the most popular destinations on the island of O'ahu. 

Waikiki Beach

Hawaii's Olympic medalist Duke Kahanamoku 

Waikiki Beach, perhaps the most well-known beach in all of Hawaii, is located in the heart of Honolulu, a bustling metropolis of 351,000 residents. Within it, the four-square mile area, known as Waikiki, is home to 50 hotels, nine of which are located on Waikiki beach.

Waikiki Beach

Here emergency vehicle sirens mix with soothing Hawaiian music piped from speakers along the beach sidewalk. The air is thick with scent of coconut-based suntan lotions. Palm and Banyon trees shade beach areas where surfboard storage racks stand side by side with beach shacks serving food and drink. Sun and surf enthusiasts lay colorful beach towels so close together on the sandy beach that it can be difficult to step around them. Its main drag, Kalakaua Avenue, offers well-healed shoppers a plethora of choices from Gucci and Yves Saint Lauren to Tesla. 

Banyan tree on Waikiki Beach

The name Waikiki means 'spouting water' and stems from a time when the area was home to fishponds and taro fields fed by abundant springs and rivers. It was in the early 1900's that tourism got a toehold on Waikiki with the construction of the Moana Hotel, followed a few years later by the Royal Hawaiian.

The Royal Hawaiian

Hotel opening was front page headlines in 1927

Our February 1st arrival, purely by coincidence, fell on the 98th anniversary of the hotel's grand opening.  According to its historical displays, it was a gala celebration that drew 1,200 attendees who'd paid the whopping sum of $10 a ticket to attend the affair. 

 

Opening Night Gala

However, its 98th anniversary went by without notice. Although, thanks to a Saturday night gala for the Honolulu Ballet, the hotel's common areas were again filled with guests decked out in sequined gowns and tuxedos; and while not as crowded as opening night, the scene was equally as elegant. 

Hawaii Ballet welcomes fete attendees

We'd chosen to stay in the original building instead of its newer high-rise sister hotel the Royal Beach Tower. We adore old historic hotels, and this is one of the best-preserved places we've stayed as it has all the modern conveniences incorporated into the stately old building.  

Our room with a view

We were delighted to find ourselves in an ocean view room overlooking the hotel's MaiTai beach bar. Our windows opened so we could hear the rustling palm fronds as well as the traditional Hawaiian songs sung by performers in the beach bar. 

Hotel grounds belie the modern world just outside its perimeter

With such a short stay we kept our explorations somewhat limited to strolls along the beach area and revisiting old favorites within a few blocks of the hotel. To be honest, the hotel grounds, shops and eateries were too tempting to get too far away.

Nighttime was simply enchanting

We've never been ones to commit to travels years in advance. But I admit that as we sipped our final night's wine in the hotel's MaiTai Bar, with a view of Waikiki Beach and Diamond Head, I did say that I am putting February 1st, 2027, on my bucket list/calendar. . . 

I'm betting the 100th birthday celebration is going to be something! And I'd like to be there! 

A final glass of pink (French rose wine)

Now we are back in an unseasonably cold southern Greece where we make our expat home. Hawaii goes into the memories file, and it is time to start thinking about future travels. We've got some plans shaping up, how about you?  Any upcoming trips?  Any armchair travels thanks to a good book?  Let us know in the comments or send us an email.

Again, thanks for your time with us and wishes for safe travels to you and yours~

Home for the Holidays

On a chilly mid-December evening, the brightly lit boat across the harbor was a clear reminder that the festive season had arrived.  I say 'festive season' -- not Christmas -- because the illuminated boat was erected to honor the real Saint Nikolaos - not Santa.  

Agios Nikolaos - patron saint of sailors

Saint Nikolaos is the revered patron saint of sailors in Greece. For that reason, villages traditionally display a decorated boat to honor his December 6th birthday. Many keep the boat on display throughout the month making it the community's holiday centerpiece.

'Tis the Season in Agios Nikolaos

The spectacular blue and white boat is new in our village this year. Provided by the Municipality, as our regional government is called, it is the first such grand decoration we've had in the decade that we've been here. It has unofficially become the symbol of this year's holiday season. 

A decade ago, manger scenes were the village decoration

During our first few Christmas seasons here, villages, including ours, displayed a manger scene, similar to the one above that I photographed several years ago in the village of Kambos. Over the years, the manger gave way to a decoration or two on a light pole; one year a star, another a small boat.

During our first few Christmases here, we found decorations, wrapping paper and ribbon to be scarce. Kalamata, our big city to the north, was the place to search for such items.  But the times are changing and now our local supermarket has devoted a good amount of space on both of its floors to Christmas items ranging from large artificial Christmas trees to themed salt and pepper shakers, toys and gifts. 

Shelves of decorations at our local supermarket

We know that along with Christmas items comes Santa. We think back again to the early years here when the village children awaited a visit from Agios Vasilis (Saint Basil) on New Year's Day as he was the one who brought a present to reward those good little boys and girls. Santa seems nowadays to have materialized as the season's lead character. The one pictured below maintained a Santa's house on the Main Square in Kalamata for weeks before Christmas.  Maybe if they are lucky - or very, very good - Greek children now get presents from both.

Songs being sung for Santa Claus in Kalamata

Thankfully -- to our way of thinking -- the glitz of Christmas hasn't yet overtaken the villages. Christmas Eve morning we spotted two groups of children, traveling minstrels they were, out singing Greek kalandas (carols) in the village. Hopefully they will return on the morning of New Year's Eve as well. While their efforts are usually off-tune, they spread good cheer and hope that maybe small coins or sweets will be offered for their melodies.

Singers at our door, a few years ago.

Aside from that brightly lit boat, there are few decorations - certainly nothing like the bright lights and displays of Athens, Thessaloniki and other large cities. There are decorations though and we've been lucky enough to spot a few as we run errands.  The one pictured below is near a small roadside shrine just outside the laundry in our neighboring village, Stoupa.

And one morning we came across the understated but seasonal decoration of oranges and pomegranates below hanging between two buildings in the village of Kardamyli. 

Good to eat and a great decoration as well

In Stoupa the Municipality has replaced the small lighted boat on a light post with a gigantic star that lights up at night overlooking its harbor.

Stoupa's star, is a backdrop for visitor's holiday photos

Here, we are Home for the Holidays

It is here; we are home for the holidays again this year.  And being home for the holidays takes on a slightly different twist when you are an expat living in a country not your own.  

Kalamata decked out for Christmas

Being in this new environment has gotten us out of the holiday routines we had perfected over the years.  Here we've blended new behaviors with some of the traditions we brought with us from our old world. 

Maybe one of the best things about holidays here is discovering how easy it is to enjoy them. We gather with friends on Christmas Eve and again on Christmas morning no longer worried that they will be busy with family commitments as was the case back in our old world. 

As cliche as it may sound, the expat friends have become an extended family of sorts.  

Our gatherings are unhurried affairs, stretching for hours.as there are no longer those self-imposed deadlines we attached to the holiday before. We are free to enjoy the time together. It makes for a very laid-back and relaxing experience.  

Christmas morning tradition, photo 2022 - not as warm this year

This year our expat friends from California hosted a happy hour at their home on a stormy Christmas Eve. It was such a relaxed affair that we ate, drank and made merry without regard to the passing of time or the storm raging outside.

By morning the weather had calmed enough we could attend another gathering of many of the same friends at the beach cafe near our home. This beach gathering just 'happens' each Christmas morning as there is no event organizer. We all show up at some point in late morning for coffee and conversation. It began so many years ago, that no one really remembers who started the tradition. 

Christmas dinner in the village

While back in the old world, the traditional cooking of and consuming prime rib with all the trimmings pretty much filled our Christmas Day. Here our developing tradition is to feast at one of our local eateries.  

Second Chrismas 2024

And here the day after Christmas is also a holiday, referred to as 'the second day of Christmas' unless you are a British expat and then it is Boxing Day.  A morning coffee in the village, a few minutes gazing at the ocean, a lazy afternoon and evening . . .home for the holidays, we certainly are!

Our holiday wishes to you and yours! We hope that whatever your season or celebration, that it is a good one.  And may your 2025 be happy, healthy and filled with travel, be it real or armchair!

Until next time, thanks for the time you spent with us today ~

 

  

Oh, there's no place like home for the holidays                                                                                        Cause no matter how far away you roam                                                                                                  When you pine for the sunshine of a friendly face                                                                                      You can't beat home sweet home.