That Pink Palace of the Pacific

Nowadays high-rise hotels surround the elegant old 'pink palace' as if sentinels protecting it from the modern world. 

The Pink Palace

Yet, back in its day, this hotel with its Spanish Moorish style architecture and striking pink facade, was a standout on Waikiki, the beach it has helped make famous. 

In its early years, the pink palace reigned over Waikiki

For nearly a century, The Royal Hawaiian Hotel, aka 'the Pink Palace of the Pacific', has provided a tropical-style old world elegant getaway to those who've spent time here.  

It was here that we decided to spend the last weekend of our Hawaiian getaway. More than a decade has passed since we'd last treated ourselves to a stay in this old charmer.  And in keeping with my 'carpe diem' approach to travel this year, it was time to do it again. 

The Royal Hawaiian remains a pink palace on the beach

 'Carpe Diem!' the Latin phrase for seize the day, seize the moment or seize the pleasure is my mantra about travel this year. Circumstances slowed our travels last year and it is high time to make up for lost experiences!

My welcome lei - live orchids

On the first day of February our cab driver eased past the modern high rises - The Sheraton, Royal Beach Tower and Outrigger Hotels -- and took us back in time as he followed the hotel's circular drive through one of its lush tropical gardens. In keeping with hotel tradition, we were greeted by uniformed valets who draped us with leis of welcome:  mine a necklace of fragile orchid blooms, and The Scout's a rope of kukui nuts.

Rocking chairs off the lobby face the tropical gardens

Somewhere between the lei greeting and spotting the rocking chairs just off the lobby, I knew we'd made the right decision about spending our final weekend here. A stay at the Royal Hawaiian, for that matter, any hotel on Waikiki is not inexpensive whether you are spending currency or accumulated hotel points (which we were). Tourism isn't quite back to pre-Covid days, but it is robust, and Waikiki continues to be one of the most popular destinations on the island of O'ahu. 

Waikiki Beach

Hawaii's Olympic medalist Duke Kahanamoku 

Waikiki Beach, perhaps the most well-known beach in all of Hawaii, is located in the heart of Honolulu, a bustling metropolis of 351,000 residents. Within it, the four-square mile area, known as Waikiki, is home to 50 hotels, nine of which are located on Waikiki beach.

Waikiki Beach

Here emergency vehicle sirens mix with soothing Hawaiian music piped from speakers along the beach sidewalk. The air is thick with scent of coconut-based suntan lotions. Palm and Banyon trees shade beach areas where surfboard storage racks stand side by side with beach shacks serving food and drink. Sun and surf enthusiasts lay colorful beach towels so close together on the sandy beach that it can be difficult to step around them. Its main drag, Kalakaua Avenue, offers well-healed shoppers a plethora of choices from Gucci and Yves Saint Lauren to Tesla. 

Banyan tree on Waikiki Beach

The name Waikiki means 'spouting water' and stems from a time when the area was home to fishponds and taro fields fed by abundant springs and rivers. It was in the early 1900's that tourism got a toehold on Waikiki with the construction of the Moana Hotel, followed a few years later by the Royal Hawaiian.

The Royal Hawaiian

Hotel opening was front page headlines in 1927

Our February 1st arrival, purely by coincidence, fell on the 98th anniversary of the hotel's grand opening.  According to its historical displays, it was a gala celebration that drew 1,200 attendees who'd paid the whopping sum of $10 a ticket to attend the affair. 

 

Opening Night Gala

However, its 98th anniversary went by without notice. Although, thanks to a Saturday night gala for the Honolulu Ballet, the hotel's common areas were again filled with guests decked out in sequined gowns and tuxedos; and while not as crowded as opening night, the scene was equally as elegant. 

Hawaii Ballet welcomes fete attendees

We'd chosen to stay in the original building instead of its newer high-rise sister hotel the Royal Beach Tower. We adore old historic hotels, and this is one of the best-preserved places we've stayed as it has all the modern conveniences incorporated into the stately old building.  

Our room with a view

We were delighted to find ourselves in an ocean view room overlooking the hotel's MaiTai beach bar. Our windows opened so we could hear the rustling palm fronds as well as the traditional Hawaiian songs sung by performers in the beach bar. 

Hotel grounds belie the modern world just outside its perimeter

With such a short stay we kept our explorations somewhat limited to strolls along the beach area and revisiting old favorites within a few blocks of the hotel. To be honest, the hotel grounds, shops and eateries were too tempting to get too far away.

Nighttime was simply enchanting

We've never been ones to commit to travels years in advance. But I admit that as we sipped our final night's wine in the hotel's MaiTai Bar, with a view of Waikiki Beach and Diamond Head, I did say that I am putting February 1st, 2027, on my bucket list/calendar. . . 

I'm betting the 100th birthday celebration is going to be something! And I'd like to be there! 

A final glass of pink (French rose wine)

Now we are back in an unseasonably cold southern Greece where we make our expat home. Hawaii goes into the memories file, and it is time to start thinking about future travels. We've got some plans shaping up, how about you?  Any upcoming trips?  Any armchair travels thanks to a good book?  Let us know in the comments or send us an email.

Again, thanks for your time with us and wishes for safe travels to you and yours~

Back to that First Love ~

It was love at first sight. . .and scent. No doubt about it.  I recall the moment as if it were yesterday.  

I had arrived in Honolulu, Hawaii. My first solo trip. My introduction to the land of swaying palm trees, white sand beaches, and ocean waves.   

Hawai'ian sunset

Stepping from the Northwest Orient 747 aircraft I found myself in a tropical paradise. The air was thick and scented with the perfume of the island's blooms:  jasmine, tuberose, hibiscus, plumeria, and other exotics that I didn't recognize. 

Hybiscus blooms in Hawaii

Leis, those flower necklaces with intoxicating aromas were sold from stands that filled the open-air arrivals terminal. Hawaiian music played in the background and total strangers called out greetings of 'Aloha' as I made my way to baggage claim. 

 Before I set foot outside the airport, my love affair with Hawaii had begun.

Lei'd and luau bound - Diamond Head in the background 

Hawai'i became America's 50th state when I was barely six years old.  It was still in statehood infancy when 20 years later I flew there from Seattle to meet a good friend who was coming from Guam. We had been cub reporters together in Central Washington State, and for the week we were together we were a pair of intrepid travelers.  

Intrepid travelers in Hawaii

That introduction to islands and tropical life went far too quickly. The Scout and I met and married the following year, and luckily Hawaii was a favorite destination of his as well. It became a go-to holiday for us.  

State of Hawaii in the middle of the Pacific Ocean

 

Over the years we explored this state set in the Pacific Ocean some 2,400 miles from San Francisco to the east and 5,200 from Manila to the west.  Each of its islands -- Maui, Kauai, Kona, Molokai and Lanai -- enticed us with their individual charms.  

Kauai

But it was on O'ahu, the island that captured my heart back so many years ago, where we ultimately purchased a timeshare so that we could escape Pacific Northwest winters for several weeks each year.

KoOlina - O'ahu

The development which it is located, on the west side of the island, is named Ko'Olina, 'place of joy' in Hawaiian. It encompasses an 11-acre area called Lanikuhonua,'where Heaven meets the earth'.  Both are apt descriptions of the area to our way of thinking.

KoOlina - place of joy

Maintaining that Love Affair with Hawaii

Even after our move to Greece we returned to Hawaii each winter. We found one of the benefits of 'same time, next year' travel was the friendships made with people who are at the same place you are, at the same time, each year. For a few weeks each year, the island was our world; a place where we have our favorite grocery stores, beaches, walks, and a close-knit group of friends with whom we socialize. 

Same time next year friends that we will see soon

Our last stay was January 2020, just weeks before Covid shut down the world of travel.  

By the time travel resumed, we had other destinations lined up to explore as lockdown made us realize that putting off such trips to a future date, might not be the best idea 'at our ages'. As a result, we've rented out those weeks in Hawaii and have traveled elsewhere.  Each year though, we'd say, 'next year we will go back to Hawaii'.  

And . . .this year is 'next year'! 

Hawaii bound

By the time some of you read this, we will be Hawaii bound.  It is a journey that will take two days of travel and require an overnight in London. We will drive to Athens, fly from there to Heathrow the first day, and the next morning fly to Seattle where we will catch a flight to Honolulu. Just about 9,000 airmiles, 20 flight hours, and three planes. 

KoOlina's famous, 'Frozen MaiTai'

This trip will help us determine if we still have the 'get up and go' required for such long trips. We are prepared for sticker shock as we acclimate (or not) to the prices of this popular tourist destination. We are prepared for traffic jams on the freeway that link the airport to our 'place of joy'. Hawaii, like all wonderful places in the world, has to deal with 'overtourism' and its related issues these days. 

Winter wave at KoOlina

This trip will also bring us together with friends we haven't seen in far too long. We'll have long walks, visits, outings and pupu parties (we call them mezes in Greece and appetizers in the Pacific Northwest).  We will spend time on white sand beaches and watch palm trees sway in the tropical breeze. 

 I anticipate a rekindling of this Hawaiian love affair. . . stay tuned for the rest of this story.

Swaying palms - a tropical favorite at KoOlina

Until our next report, our wishes to you are for safe travels, and a happy, healthy New Year! And, as always, Mahalo, thanks, for the time you've spent with us today!

Waikiki ~ A Royal Pink Palace Celebration

Once upon a time in the middle of the Pacific Ocean there was an island kingdom; a land of islands ruled by kings and queens. . . a Land we now call ‘Hawaii’. . .

Island of Lanai - Hawaii

Visitors who spend anytime in Hawaii will soon be caught up in its history and the stories of those who ruled that not-so-long-ago Kingdom. Reminders and tributes are everywhere from the Kamehameha Highway to Queen’s Hospital.

Island of Oahu, Hawaii

Among the Royalty were – just to name a few -- King Kamehameha, also known as Kamehameha the Great, who conquered most of the Hawaiian Islands and formally established the Kingdom of Hawaiʻi in 1810. . . and Queen Emma, consort of King Kamehameha IV. . . and King Kalakaua, and finally Queen Lili’uokalani the last reigning monarch of the Kingdom of Hawai’i. She reigned until the overthrow of the Kingdom in 1893.

The history of the Kingdom, the arrival of Christian missionaries, the introduction of sugar cane and pineapple production, its tourism industry and the road to statehood in 1959, is multifaceted. Today I am focusing on one small but important part of its fascinating story . . .

The Royal Hawaiian Hotel ~ The Pink Palace of the Pacific

Royal Hawaiian Hotel and Waikiki Beach - Honolulu

If you look closely at my photo above you’ll see the iconic Royal Hawaiian Hotel, ‘the Pink Palace of the Pacific’ tucked away in the shadow of modern high-rise hotel towers. What a contrast to when she reigned over Waikiki Beach as shown in the photo below. The Grand Old Queen of the Beach celebrates her 90th anniversary this month.

Royal Hawaii Hotel - Photo, Historic Hawaii Foundation Collection

The first Royal Hawaiian Hotel was originally built in downtown Honolulu to house visiting dignitaries. Opening in 1871 it was called the Hawaiian Hotel, then soon after King Kalakaua came into power in 1874, it was called the Royal Hawaiian Hotel. In the early 1900’s, with the hotel in decline, the YMCA took over the building and Matson Navigation Company bought the name.

The Regal Entry to the Royal Hawaiian Hotel

Opening at its present-day Waikiki location on February 1, 1927, the new Royal Hawaiian Hotel drew 1,200 attendees to its opening night gala.  The hotel’s Spanish-Moorish style was popular in the 1920’s, partially due to the popularity of Rudolph Valentino, an Italian actor who often portrayed Arab sheiks in movies, according to Bob Sigall, who writes “Rearview Mirror” for the Honolulu Star Advertiser Sunday Magazine.

Promotional posters from yesteryear on display at the Royal Hawaiian Hotel

With the hotel’s opening, the era of luxury travel to Hawaii had begun. Matson Navigation Co. operated two cruise ships, the Lurline and the Matsonia that traveled between California and Honolulu. Passengers sailed on the luxury liners and then stayed in luxurious surroundings at the Royal Hawaiian. (Matson ultimately owned four hotels in Hawaii and in 1959 sold them to Sheraton for $18 million.)

If the walls could talk - Royal Hawaiian Hotel - Honolulu

Those early day cruisers after being welcomed with leis and serenaded by the Royal Hawaiian Band at the pier were treated to a lawn party at the hotel. While guests partied, servants unpacked their bags, according to Sigall.

Wall map in entry way of Royal Hawaiian Hotel - Honolulu

During World War II tourism tanked. The luxury cruise ships were painted war-time gray and became troop transport ships while the Navy took over the Royal Hawaiian, paying $17,500 a month rent. The hotel was then used for a Rest and Relaxation (R and R) facility for troops. It didn’t take long after the war for tourism to return and the hotel reopened to resume hosting the luxury traveler.

Ceilings in the Royal Hawaiian - Pink Palace of the Pacific - Hotel 

Hawaiians like to ‘talk story’ and among the hotel’s stories is one explaining its pink color:  it was inspired by the colors of homes in Portugal, many of which, back in the 1920’s, were painted pink with blue shutters.

William "Chick" Daniels - Royal Hawaiian Hotel - Honolulu

A look at the history of the ‘Pink Palace’ wouldn’t be complete without mention of the Waikiki ‘beach boys’ –  those talented and athletic young Hawaiians who taught visitors how to surf and to use outrigger canoes.  There’s a photo display at the hotel that pays tribute to one of their favorite ‘beach boys’:  William ‘Chick’ Daniels (1899-1982).  Chick, as he was called, began his 50-year career at the Royal Hawaiian in 1927. He became their Head Beach Attendant.

This talented waterman was also a musician and entertained guests by day then performed with his band, the ‘Royal Hawaiians’ at night. They performed at the hotel’s opening gala. Years later, he wrote the Hawaiian song, “Lei Aloha” which he performed in New York on the Arthur Godfrey radio show.

Waikiki Beach - Honolulu, Hawaii

It was a different time, those glory days of luxury in the ‘Pink Palace’. The price of a ticket to that that opening gala cost $10 per person, or about $150 by today’s standards.

But it’s not too late to have a taste of the elegance: The hotel’s 90th Anniversary Gala is slated for March 3rd, tickets are $350 per person with all proceeds going to the ALS Association. The event, housed in the hotel’s elegant Monarch Room, will include a cocktail reception, three-course meal, entertainment and silent auction. Tickets are still available. For information: royalhawaiian90thgala@luxurycollection.com or (808) 931-7912.

Window display hotel shop - Royal Hawaiian Hotel

If you want a bit more ‘talk story’ about the ‘Pink Palace’ the hotel’s historian, Kehaulani Kam, leads one hour tours twice a week. They currently begin at 1 p.m. Tuesdays and Thursdays. Contact the hotel for details, (808) 923-7311.

Aloha for this week. If you have a story about the Royal Hawaiian we invite you to tell us about it in the comments below or send us an email and we’ll add your story. The hotel wants to hear your memories, so hashtag it, #Royal90.  May your travels be happy and healthy! Hope you’ll be back next week and bring a friend or two with you.

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In Hawaii: E Komo Mai ~ All Are Welcome

E Komo Mai (eh koh-moh my-ee) – Hawaiian for ‘welcome’ or ‘come in’.

A KoOlina Tradition

The small gathering – an ever-changing mix of visitors and locals, representing a variety of races and religions --  has become a part of Sunday morning traditions at KoOlina on O’ahu’s west coast.  The group gathers on a grassy area between two lagoons; a peaceful area overlooking the vast Pacific Ocean. This weekly worship service has been held for years in this location.

Hawaiian greeting

A small yard sign near the public pathway reads, “E Komo Mai, All Welcome”. Even those of us who are simply passing by pause to listen to a bit of the sermon or one of the hymns being sung. In keeping with this island's Aloha Spirit and E Komo Mai attitude, there’s no pressure to stay or leave; all are made to feel welcome.

E Komo Mai - welcome

Those messages of aloha and welcome were being expressed just down the road some 20 miles away on this same Sunday morning two weekends ago but in a much different setting. Another group made up of various races and religions had gathered at the Honolulu International Airport. The signs they waved were of welcome to this tropical paradise – where close to one-fifth of the state's residents are foreign-born. Theirs was a protest of the then-hours-old Executive Order barring entry to the United States for travelers from seven countries.

KoOlina - O'ahu

Now this post isn’t going to rehash that Executive Order but that juxtapositioning of welcomes did get me thinking about how often we take visas and entry into foriegn countries for granted. This post is about E Komo Mai, as the Hawaiians say, being made to feel welcome.

Welcome – (as a verb) – greet someone arriving in a glad, polite or friendly way.

                                                -- Dictionary Definition

Wadi Rum - Jordan

As a travelers  who’ve  been to any number of countries that require tourist visas we have a healthy respect for the variety of requirements each country has for entry into it, if even for a short visit. Some require nothing more than paying a fee upon arrival, a computer scan of your passport followed by a stamp in it. Some require that you fill out an application on-line, pay for it, and print out a copy for the authorities upon arrival. Others, like India, have a such a complex application process, high fee ($400 per person) and relinquishing our passports to their US representatives for a week or more,  that had our cruise a year ago not required us to have had the visa to board the ship, we’d have simply never gotten off the ship in India.

A smile is the universal welcome.

Max Eastman

However, once we had the visa, we have never been made to feel unwelcome in any country we’ve visited.

 

Our guide in Petra and The Scout

Like most who travel, we find that the every-day people we've encountered are simply normal people living in a different culture and religion than we know. Sometimes we don’t fully understand it, but that is why we’ve gone there in the first place – we want to learn more about them. And in the course of our travels, we’ve given those everyday folks a chance to meet everyday Americans as well. More than once we’ve been told we don’t ‘act like Americans’ – at least how they have believed or thought Americans would act.

A new friend, a business traveler we met in Cairo, Egypt

One reader of a post I wrote about our time in Cairo told us to be careful because ‘they don’t like Americans there'. Well, I suppose that if I were to survey everyone of the more than 20 million people in the city, I’d find some that didn’t like Americans for whatever reason. But I can assure you those that we have met not only welcomed us but thanked us for visiting their country. (When’s the last time you thanked a foreign visitor for coming to your country?)

Greek olive grove

We’ve actually had people ask us “How do you find the Greeks?” when they learn we have a home there. “Find them?” we respond.  “You know. . . do they like Americans?”  Now I have to admit we find those questions absolutely absurd based on our experiences.  We have been made to feel more than welcome from the locals we have met in our villages.

Our village children lead a parade through Kardamyli

We are feeling so welcome, that  as we’ve said in earlier posts, we are seeking resident visas which would allow us more time in that country. I can assure you, this visa process makes those tourist visa applications look like a piece of cake. It is neither easy nor inexpensive but it is definitely humbling.

And probably not unlike what the United States requires of those wanting similar status here.

Welcome Mat at The Stone House on the Hill

If we are not granted a resident visa we will continue going to our Greek life and staying for as long as our tourist visa allows.  However,  I won’t take either the tourist or resident visa for granted anymore.  I’ve seen how quickly, with a single signature, a government can impact the lives of travelers who believe they hold valid visas.

So aloha from Hawaii where our timeshare life is drawing to a close for another year.  Again, the 'e koma mai' spirit makes it difficult to leave but new travel adventures await.  May your travels be safe and may you always find a welcome mat waiting for you.

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