Gythio - Re-discovering Greek treasures

Freedom. We were fleeing from the confines of lockdown. . .we were escaping!

Sun roof open and on the road again in Greece

Last week, after more than two months of traveling no further than a couple of kilometers from home, we were finally free to travel anywhere in the mainland. Greece, to its credit, has kept the curve flat and as a result is slowly coming back to life from its rather draconian, but effective, lockdown for COVID19.

We were finally free to travel as part of the country's staggered reopening. And I am here to tell you, these two vagabonds were giddy at the thought!

On the road to Gythio passing through the village of Agios Nikonas

The only catch was that this newfound freedom to travel came a week before restaurants and tavernas were allowed to completely reopen and a couple of weeks before hotels were allowed to reopen.

Fishing boats line the harbor in Gythio, Greece

Our first outing would have to be a day trip. Like kids in a candy shop, we couldn't decide which direction to travel. Finally we decided to follow the lead of  Paris and Helen and head to the charming port town Gythio, (Gytheio) on the other side of 'our point' in the Peloponnese.

Gythio - The Myth

According to Greek mythology, Gythio is said to have been founded by Heracles and Apollo.

Gythio, Greece

Paris and Helen fled to Gythio, (ghee-THEE-oh) to escape her husband, King Menelaus of Sparta.

In short: Helen of Sparta was the most beautiful woman on earth. Paris was a Trojan Prince. She and Paris fled to the island, ancient Kranae, just off the shore at Gythio, and after a night of passion they sailed to Troy. That little getaway set off the Trojan War and ultimately the end of Troy.

Okay, our getaway wasn't quite as earthshaking as that. Yet, I can tell you we felt the thrill of escape as we set out on our journey!

I am certain all of you who've experienced some sort of confinement in recent months can appreciate how it felt getting in a car, opening the sun roof and side windows -- being blasted by sun and wind -- and setting off on an adventure that takes you beyond a grocery store, pharmacy or the local take-out place!

First post lockdown daytrip route

Gythio is a little over an hour's drive from our home in The Mani region of the Greek Peloponnese. The route takes us south through several small villages and then across hills and valleys that make up the inland countryside.

We often visit this once-seaport of Sparta (some 30 miles away) because it is so close, yet so different. This picturesque town is a total contrast to the world in which we live. Its soft pastel-painted 19th century Neoclassic architecture is so very different from the harsh gray and brown stone construction that dominates our area. But never has it looked as inviting as it did after lockdown. We have been guilty of taking its charms for granted. In fact, I realize I've never even written about the place before!

Greek treasure - discovered

Mermaid on the new cruise ship dock

A Greek ferry arrives and departs this city once a week, taking passengers and cars to and from the islands of Kythira and Crete. The ferry continued running throughout the lockdown.

We've noticed in recent years, a definite upswing in tourism here, perhaps as result of being discovered by the cruise ship industry.

Cruise ships at Gythio before new dock was finished

By last year, Gythio was becoming a regular port of call for a number of small cruise ships. Among cruise lines with ships stopping here were Regent Seven Seas, Windstar and Oceania. So many ships, that a new dock was constructed at the harbor to handle the ships, tour buses and passengers.

New ship dock in Gythio sits empty

The new dock was empty. A a sad reminder of the impact of COVID19 on travel, cruise travel in particular. We were the only ones on the dock. We can't help but wonder when and if a cruise ship might dock here again.

Plenty of yachts in the harbor

The shops throughout town were open. Hotels and restaurants that line the waterfront were abuzz with activity as eateries prepared to reopen (which happened this last week) with the opening of hotels in the next few weeks.

A new wine shop, Ell-oinon, find in Gythio

We had a coffee to go and sipped it in the plateia (plaza) that serves as a roundabout for traffic on the seafront road. Traffic still swirled around the little oasis as it always has. On a street perpendicular to the waterfront, we discovered a new wine store where wine can be purchased by the liter and is poured from the barrel and box into a container the size you desire. Along the waterfront I purchased a new sun bonnet from one of my favorite tourist shops. We were the only customers in both shops.

La Boheme Boutique Hotel Gythio

For years we've said we should spend a night here. We've learned from lockdown not to put off until tomorrow as the opportunity may be lost. . .so we've already been scouting accommodations! There are plenty of them and once again, like kids in a candy store, we will have difficulty in deciding which one to choose.

Flower decked balcony in Gythio

It is a great feeling to again be making decisions about which way to go and what to do when we get there. As our adopted country continues to open, we are planning some overnight getaways in the next month. We will take the appropriate precautions but unlike some other travelers who've written about taking a bag of cleaners and disinfectants with them, we don't plan to spend our time cleaning rooms. We plan to get out and enjoy the destination. It seems as if it has been a long time since we could do that!

I'll let you know how it goes in our next post and in the meantime our wishes for safety and health wherever this finds you.  Thanks for your time today!

Linking this week with:

Mosaic Monday
Through My Lens
Travel Tuesday
Our World Tuesday
My Corner of the World Wednesday
Wordless Wednesday

Life in Greece ~ Running Away from Home

Sometimes these short changes of scenery are called ‘getaways’. Other times ‘road trips’.

Sometimes it is simply an act of ‘running away from home’ adult-style.

Gerolimenas, Peloponnese Greece

Such was the 30-hour escape we had two weeks ago.

There was a break in the schedule of projects and chores at our Stone House on the Hill.  The weather continued to tease with spring then slap us back into winter with another storm. Seeds had been planted but not yet sprouted. We had a window of opportunity. . .

The Stone House on the Hill, The Mani, Greece

And we had been remarking – well, truthfully, I may have snarling --  that we’d moved here as a base for travel and the furthest we’d gotten it seemed in recent weeks was to the hardware store in the neighboring village.

So on a Sunday morning when the fickle weather offered brilliant blue sky to the left and storm clouds to the right, we gathered a change of clothes, our hiking shoes (‘just in case’) put out extra cat food, locked our doors and headed out.

"Our point" in the Peloponnese

The nice thing about the Peloponnese is that something of interest is never very far away. So an escape of 30 hours – as ours was – took us on a very satisfying getaway without much muss or fuss.

We first went south to Gerolimenas for an overnight stay (less than two hours drive time) then across the point and up the east coast next morning (leisurely drive took all morning). Lunch in Githio and back across the point and the trip was done by 3 p.m.

Our Destination: The Hotel Owned by the ‘People from Seattle’

Kyrimi Bed and Breakfast, Gerolimenas, Greece

Yes, while many ‘back there’ think we’ve moved to the ends of the earth, there are a remarkable number of us “Puget Sound folks” in this area of the world.  Among them are Kostas and Linda Kyrimis of West Seattle, owners of the Kyrimi Bed and Breakfast, a small hotel overlooking the harbor in Geroliminas.

We could have lived in this spacious room at Kyrimi

Our Kirkland, Washington friends who moved to Greece and live down the road from us, tipped us off to the hotel as they have have friends back in Kirkland, who are also friends of Kostas and Linda.

The old phrase ‘timing is everything’ came into play as we arrived as they were packing up and heading out for a flight to Seattle. We had a brief ‘small-world-isn’t-it visit’ and promised to reconnect either here or there later in the year.

We didn’t unpack the hiking shoes – instead, we settled in to storm-watch.

Our deck at Kyrimi Bed and Breakfast, Gerolimenas

It was far too cold and blustery to enjoy our spacious deck so we huddled up inside, venturing out to have dinner next door at the Kyrimai Hotel, that is owned by a relative Alexandros Kyrimis. Both places offer spectacular views of the harbor and the sea.

Kyrimai Hotel, Gerolimenas, Greece

The weather reminded us of winter storm watching on the Pacific Northwest coasts in Washington and Canada’s British Columbia.

Across the Point

The storm had heralded in a blanket of African sand that dimmed the horizon the next morning and our sightseeing was through a hazy sepia colored atmospheric lens.

Off from Gerolimenas, heading south

Along the west coast a bit further south then over the southern end of the Taygetos Mountains to the east coast of ‘our’ point.

Wild flowers brighten a wild-fire sticken area on the east coast 

Through small villages and past an area that had recently been ravaged by a wild fire. . .our blue sky obliterated by the sand.

Gythio, on the east coast of our point

By the time we reached Gythio and our favorite restaurant, 90 Moires, the sand was beginning to drift so the day brightened considerable.  Following a quick stroll on the waterfront, we headed home – we had some chores to do, but by then were ready to do them!

But first we went to the car wash – Hi Ho Silver had gotten a bit dusted!

African dust

We are off again this week on an island getaway. Our chores and projects again in hiatus.  We've never been to the island that seems a stone’s throw from the Peloponnese coast. We’ve been saying we needed to go – now it is time. Next week I’ll tell you about it. Our thanks for being with us and wishes for safe and happy travels!

For those who might be heading this way and want to know more about the hotel run by ‘those people from Seattle’, I am adding this photo: You can reach them in the U.S. by calling 206 938 3348.

Contact information 

Linking up this week with:
Through My Lens
Our World Tuesday
Wordless Wednesday
Communal Global
Travel Photo Thursday –  
Best of Weekend