In Greece ~ So, where you from?

'So, where you from?" our waiter asked as he set the cappuccinos to the side of the hand sanitizer bottle and ash tray; the ubiquitous centerpieces of outdoor tables at restaurants and cafes in Greece these days.

Coffee on Hydra island 

It is a question so routinely asked of us in our travels in Greece that we didn't even think about our answer. We are assumed to be tourists, never residents.

'We live in The Mani,. . .Peloponnisos," replied The Scout, adding, 'we are originally from Washington -- the state, that is -- in the United States.'

'Americans! I thought so!' exclaimed our server as if a mystery had just been solved. 'But you live here! I had wondered how you got into the country.'

Hydra, a Saronic island

It was a good question on his part because travelers from America aren't yet welcome in Greece or elsewhere the European Union for that matter.

The conversation took place shortly after we'd arrived on the island of Hydra (also Idra, Ydra) last week. The island had been a scheduled stop on our June 'holibob' but we were a bit too early. Hotels and restaurants there hadn't opened yet following the COVID19 prevention lockdown that kept Greece closed most of the spring.

Our home to Hydra in less than five hours

Since we can get there with a short road trip of four hours and a ferry ride of 30 minutes we decided to complete the 'holibob' with a three night stay last week on our favorite Saronic Island.

While we consider ourselves fortunate to be able to travel (and know that many of you reading this aren't yet able to do so), I must say there is a definitely a 'new normal' to it in this country, where we live as American expats.

Masks on public transportation - new normal for travel in Greece

The new normal includes the absence of tourists coming from America. The Covid19 numbers in the United States have landed it among countries on the 'not invited list' in the European Union. A mid-July review of that list, didn't change things - the list will be reviewed again on July 31st.

 As a result of that action American, Delta, Emirates and United Airlines have cancelled their summer flights linking Athens with a number of U.S. gateway cities.

No wonder our waiter was wondering how we'd managed to get in!

Our waiter explaining the fresh catch to 'the American'

The following evening at a restaurant overlooking the Saronic Gulf, the waiter serving us (pictured above) also asked, "So where you from?"  We gave the same response.  He flashed a big smile and said, 'You are the first Americans I have the pleasure of serving this year!'

View of the Saronic Gulf from the Sunset Restaurant - Hydra

So good was the meal and the setting that we returned to the restaurant the next evening. This time the waiter quipped, "Ah, I have the pleasure of serving the first Americans again."  We suggested he could count us twice - once for each visit. We all laughed but then he said, in an almost wistful tone, "Where are the Americans?"

Every table has a view it seems on Hydra

COVID19 prevention efforts have negatively impacted tourism here. Visitor numbers are down. Officials quoted in Greek media say they hope to see an upswing in August and an extended season into September and October.

Summer, especially on Greek islands, is decidedly a busy time even in times of less tourism. While there were many tourists, there were far fewer than we recall seeing during our summer sojourn to Hydra last year.

Metoxi ferry connects mainland with Hydra

The small Metoxi ferry that the we take from the Peloponnese mainland to the island was running at 30-minute intervals during a portion of the day last summer. On this trip it was running on the off-season hourly schedule. And five of those hourly runs each day had been cancelled.  We took the 10 a.m. Saturday ferry back to the mainland, had masks ready to put on until we realized we were the only two passengers on the boat.  We sat outside at the back of the boat. Two crew members were at the front. Three people were waiting to board the ferry on the mainland side.

Self distancing not a problem with fewer tourists - Hydra Island

Greek tourism folks are predicting that COVID19 is going to result in at least a 20 percent reduction of Greece's tourism revenue; a  revenue that was between 18 and 19 billion euros last year. Tourism accounts for about 20 percent of the country's GDP.

Masks are required on public transportation including high speed ferries

Greece finds itself in a delicate balancing act of opening up tourism for those many whose livelihoods depend on it while maintaining a determined approach to COVID prevention.  Just reading headlines last week we found celebratory stories about the first flights arriving at regional airports appearing next to headlines reporting spikes in the numbers of COVID cases.  Here a spike is considered going from a daily -countrywide count - of say, 24 cases to 50 or 60. It happened a few times since borders were opened and as a result, prevention measures have been stepped up. A mandate to return to wearing face masks in grocery stores was issued on Friday evening.  The populace has become a bit relaxed and it was time to tighten up again. Now, if caught not wearing a mask, we will be fined 150 euros.

Masks, I should add, are also required on public transportation, ships, planes, beauty salons, all offices and clinics providing medical services.

Just today a two-week closure of several border crossings with neighboring countries has been announced for non-essential travel. Again, a spike in numbers prompted the action.

Hydra harbor at nightfall

After I last wrote about the prevention measures taken at the Costa Navarino resort, I was asked if we were able to enjoy ourselves with such protocols in place.  The answer is a resounding, 'Yes!'  It does keep COVID19 at the front and center of awareness, but it also reminds you that prevention is being taken seriously by the Greek hospitality industry.

In other words, we have felt safe traveling in Greece.

Until next time. . .

We had plenty of time to think about travel during those long months of lock-down. One thing that became obvious was not to put off taking trips while we are able to do so.  We know how quickly opportunity can be taken away. And the headlines continue to remind us of how fluid the situation and how easily such lockdowns can be put into place, thus ending travel again.

Our thoughts are with those of you who are still traveling by armchair - we wish you well. Stay safe. Thanks for being with us today. Hope to see you back here soon! We hope you'll add a comment or send an email and let us know how life is going in your part of the world ~

Linking soon with -

Mosaic Monday
Through My Lens
Travel Tuesday
Our World Tuesday
My Corner of the World Wednesday
Wordless Wednesday

Gythio - Re-discovering Greek treasures

Freedom. We were fleeing from the confines of lockdown. . .we were escaping!

Sun roof open and on the road again in Greece

Last week, after more than two months of traveling no further than a couple of kilometers from home, we were finally free to travel anywhere in the mainland. Greece, to its credit, has kept the curve flat and as a result is slowly coming back to life from its rather draconian, but effective, lockdown for COVID19.

We were finally free to travel as part of the country's staggered reopening. And I am here to tell you, these two vagabonds were giddy at the thought!

On the road to Gythio passing through the village of Agios Nikonas

The only catch was that this newfound freedom to travel came a week before restaurants and tavernas were allowed to completely reopen and a couple of weeks before hotels were allowed to reopen.

Fishing boats line the harbor in Gythio, Greece

Our first outing would have to be a day trip. Like kids in a candy shop, we couldn't decide which direction to travel. Finally we decided to follow the lead of  Paris and Helen and head to the charming port town Gythio, (Gytheio) on the other side of 'our point' in the Peloponnese.

Gythio - The Myth

According to Greek mythology, Gythio is said to have been founded by Heracles and Apollo.

Gythio, Greece

Paris and Helen fled to Gythio, (ghee-THEE-oh) to escape her husband, King Menelaus of Sparta.

In short: Helen of Sparta was the most beautiful woman on earth. Paris was a Trojan Prince. She and Paris fled to the island, ancient Kranae, just off the shore at Gythio, and after a night of passion they sailed to Troy. That little getaway set off the Trojan War and ultimately the end of Troy.

Okay, our getaway wasn't quite as earthshaking as that. Yet, I can tell you we felt the thrill of escape as we set out on our journey!

I am certain all of you who've experienced some sort of confinement in recent months can appreciate how it felt getting in a car, opening the sun roof and side windows -- being blasted by sun and wind -- and setting off on an adventure that takes you beyond a grocery store, pharmacy or the local take-out place!

First post lockdown daytrip route

Gythio is a little over an hour's drive from our home in The Mani region of the Greek Peloponnese. The route takes us south through several small villages and then across hills and valleys that make up the inland countryside.

We often visit this once-seaport of Sparta (some 30 miles away) because it is so close, yet so different. This picturesque town is a total contrast to the world in which we live. Its soft pastel-painted 19th century Neoclassic architecture is so very different from the harsh gray and brown stone construction that dominates our area. But never has it looked as inviting as it did after lockdown. We have been guilty of taking its charms for granted. In fact, I realize I've never even written about the place before!

Greek treasure - discovered

Mermaid on the new cruise ship dock

A Greek ferry arrives and departs this city once a week, taking passengers and cars to and from the islands of Kythira and Crete. The ferry continued running throughout the lockdown.

We've noticed in recent years, a definite upswing in tourism here, perhaps as result of being discovered by the cruise ship industry.

Cruise ships at Gythio before new dock was finished

By last year, Gythio was becoming a regular port of call for a number of small cruise ships. Among cruise lines with ships stopping here were Regent Seven Seas, Windstar and Oceania. So many ships, that a new dock was constructed at the harbor to handle the ships, tour buses and passengers.

New ship dock in Gythio sits empty

The new dock was empty. A a sad reminder of the impact of COVID19 on travel, cruise travel in particular. We were the only ones on the dock. We can't help but wonder when and if a cruise ship might dock here again.

Plenty of yachts in the harbor

The shops throughout town were open. Hotels and restaurants that line the waterfront were abuzz with activity as eateries prepared to reopen (which happened this last week) with the opening of hotels in the next few weeks.

A new wine shop, Ell-oinon, find in Gythio

We had a coffee to go and sipped it in the plateia (plaza) that serves as a roundabout for traffic on the seafront road. Traffic still swirled around the little oasis as it always has. On a street perpendicular to the waterfront, we discovered a new wine store where wine can be purchased by the liter and is poured from the barrel and box into a container the size you desire. Along the waterfront I purchased a new sun bonnet from one of my favorite tourist shops. We were the only customers in both shops.

La Boheme Boutique Hotel Gythio

For years we've said we should spend a night here. We've learned from lockdown not to put off until tomorrow as the opportunity may be lost. . .so we've already been scouting accommodations! There are plenty of them and once again, like kids in a candy store, we will have difficulty in deciding which one to choose.

Flower decked balcony in Gythio

It is a great feeling to again be making decisions about which way to go and what to do when we get there. As our adopted country continues to open, we are planning some overnight getaways in the next month. We will take the appropriate precautions but unlike some other travelers who've written about taking a bag of cleaners and disinfectants with them, we don't plan to spend our time cleaning rooms. We plan to get out and enjoy the destination. It seems as if it has been a long time since we could do that!

I'll let you know how it goes in our next post and in the meantime our wishes for safety and health wherever this finds you.  Thanks for your time today!

Linking this week with:

Mosaic Monday
Through My Lens
Travel Tuesday
Our World Tuesday
My Corner of the World Wednesday
Wordless Wednesday

On Leonard Cohen's Hydra Island

'Oh like a bird on the wire,

like a drunk in the midnight choir

I have tried in my way to be free.'

--Leonard Cohen

Hydra - Leonard Cohen's home for a decade

We've just returned from Hydra (E-drah) island. It is the one getting a lot of attention these days thanks to this year's documentary, 'Marianne and Leonard: Words of Love'. 

Several of you have written us about Nick Broomsfield's film that tells the story of Leonard Cohen, the Canadian singer, songwriter, poet and novelist who spent a decade living on this island in the Saronic Gulf, just off the coast of the Peloponnese. Marianne Ihlen, the ex-wife of Norwegian novelist Axel Jensen, (who also lived on Hydra back then) was Cohen's 'muse' and girlfriend during his time on the island.

Cohen died in 2016 at the age of 85, many long years after his time on Hydra. But still, if you've read his poetry or heard his music or watched the recent film, you can't help but think of this wordsmith when you visit Hydra. 

A home in Hydra

It takes only one visit to understand why Cohen's creative juices flowed while living here. And after several visits, your own creative juices seem to come to life as well. Even a short stay will refresh your senses.

If ever we were to live on a Greek island, we both say, Hydra would likely be the place. While it swells with tourists each summer, it remains for most of the year, a small charming place where you could lose yourself to your imagination, take an afternoon nap without apology or spend an hour or more at a harborside taverna sipping an icy Aperol Spritz. 

The road around Hydra - two- and four-footed traffic only

Even though you can buy trendy fashions at small boutiques and pricey baubles in tiny jewelry stores during the frenzied summer months, it still feels different; like you've stepped back in time on this island. Perhaps so, because Hydra doesn't allow motorized vehicles other than the small garbage truck that makes its rounds each day.  

Suitcases carried to the hotel and guests walked ahead

Horses, donkeys, and mules stand at harborside to take you or your suitcases where you need to go.  Human-powered hand carts are also available.  And generally you walk (or ride a horse or donkey) to where you need to go.  That part of the island is probably much like it was when Cohen began living there.

The port town where the majority of restaurants and tourist accommodations are clustered along narrow whitewashed pathways, is the largest one on the island. The last census - in 2011 - tallied 1,900 living in it and less than a few dozen residents in the nearby villages .  So there might be a few hundred more now, certainly not a place that is over-populated or 'over-touristed'.

Back in September of 1960, when Cohen was 26 years old, he purchased a three-story white washed home for $1,500US using a bequest of his recently deceased grandmother. The building had no electricity, plumbing or running water. He liked it that way.  In fact the story behind his famous, 'Bird on the Wire' is that he was inspired to write it as he watched his island being transformed with electric wires. He wasn't pleased, but one day he noticed a bird on the wire. . .

One of the yachts visiting Hydra during our stay

He'd likely be blown away now as he watched the summertime ferries disgorge hundreds of tourists each day. He'd also likely gasp at the size and number of yachts that moor each night in the tiny harbor. He'd probably be stunned at the many shops along the harbor catering to those visitors these days.

Fishing boat's arrival Sunday morning brought shoppers and cats

In the fall the boutiques, restaurants and accommodations begin shutting down for the season. There's always a few accommodations and restaurants that stay open year round, but  there are decidedly fewer options for travelers than during the warm weather months. 

A blustery wind and rain storm welcomed us to the island last November; the place so empty, it seemed our own private island. Hotel and restaurant choices were few. Another gusty, chilly wind greeted us in March just as the island was waking to 'the (tourist) season'.

Hydrofoil from Athens stops several times daily in Hydra in summer

Last week the place was teeming with ferries and yachts in the harbor and the town pulsating with visitors. The contrasts between seasons are vivid and each had its own special charm.

Overlooking an island village

With the summer wind much more welcoming (meaning, less fierce!) than the wind on our previous trips, we set off on foot to visit the nearby villages and were gobsmacked by the vast beauty the island has to offer

We understand why Cohen was inspired to write:

Days of Kindness

Greece is a good place

To look at the moon, isn't it

You can read by moonlight

You can read on the terrace

You can see a face

As you saw it when you were young

There was good light then

Oil lamps and candles

And those little flames

That floated on a cork in olive oil

(Those little floating corks in olive oil are still used in Greece!)

Off to another village in what seems another world - Hydra

That is it for this week. We thank you for your time with us and hope that if your travel plans ever bring you to Greece, that you include a night or two on Hydra. It's magic!

For those seeking information about Hydra (getting there, places to stay, etc.) visit: 
Hydra Direct 

Linking soon with:

Through My Lens
Our World Tuesday
Wordless Wednesday