Just a 48 Hour Greek Getaway

Sometimes even when you are an expat living in your chosen area of paradise, you need a getaway from the routine.  Even a brief change of scenery makes for a brighter attitude and a shot of energy.

A Greek getaway less than two hours from home

By the first week of November, a change of scenery from that to be had at our Stone House on the Hill in the Mani was definitely overdue:  

We'd (knock-on-wood) gotten rid of the rat who had played havoc on our car's electrical system, we'd confirmed there would be no harvest of our shriveled olive crop, we'd cleared the dozens of dead plants in my Mediterranean garden, which like the olive crop were also casualties of the summer's prolonged heat and drought. And our computer was in the repair shop. 

Good olives top, our olives bottom

It had simply been far too long since these two vagabonds had headed out on any just-for-fun getaways.

A part of the Westin lobby, Costa Navarino

Our destination was our 'go to' getaway resort located a mere 38 miles, yet a world away from our expat home in the Greek Peloponnese. Costa Navarino, a resort with four award-winning golf courses and an equal number of 5-star hotels is located on the Peloponnesian point we see from our home.  It is on that point's west side, less than two-hours' drive from our home. It is ridiculously close, so how could it have been more than two years since we last took advantage of this nearby luxe?

Golf enthusiasts in November at Navarino Hills course

Nowadays the tourist touts and jetsetter publications paint a picture of the resort as being a playground for famous super stars, a hideaway for the rich and famous.  But I can assure you, based on the several visits we've made there in the last decade, that there are far more regular folks, like us, who make up the majority of guests either seeking a quick getaway or a round or two of golf amid the swanky digs.   

A Room with a View

The resort accommodation is a mix of privately owned villas and hotels - The Mandarin Oriental, The W Hotel, Romanos, and our favorite, The Westin Hotel. Admittedly, while room rates can go off the charts in the height of summer (as has become the case throughout Greece), the end of the season rates are more affordable. 

The Westin was the first hotel we stayed at in this Greek-owned resort and habit keeps us choosing it when we return. 

The Westin bedroom and bathroom in the studio we were assigned

Two of the hotels had already closed for the season, as had many of the restaurants but there were plenty of places still open and operating. And with a Greek village just minutes away from the resort and the bustling town of Pylos a few miles away, there were plenty of choices for traditional food and drink.

Autumn in the air

We had managed to tack some errands in Kalamata on to this trip, which meant we didn't arrive at the resort until early on a Tuesday afternoon. Our room was ready and no lines at check-in. Although we didn't spend much time in the room that afternoon with all of the outdoor spaces calling out to explore.

The grounds are sprawling and are beautifully landscaped with local flora and fauna. It didn't take us long to head out for a stroll through the gardens and then ultimately, to the beach. 

Nice to see green again after this year's drought 

The resort, encompassing Navarino Bay and Navarino Dunes, has more than 1.2 million endemic shrubs of different species.  Walking through the grounds is like touring a botanical garden. Ninety percent of the land is covered with pre-existing or planted greenery.

And to keep those areas green without taking away from local water supplies, the resort has an elaborate water management system that includes water reservoirs with a capacity of just under 1.2 million liters of water for use on the development.

Decades old olive trees shad swimmers at this pool, named for them

More than 7,000 olive trees have been moved and replanted by the resort developers. The trees are prolific throughout the grounds, and I can tell you, they are being pampered compared to those outside the resort. 

Olive trees are showcased throughout the resort

We do think of them as part of Greece's national treasure, so they deserve to be well taken care of.

Ages old olive trees stand as sentries at the front entrance

We are having an incredibly beautiful autumn in the Peloponnese this year. During our stay the weather was so temperate, hovering at the low 70F's that it made sunning ourselves (wearing blue jeans and long sleeves) on the beach the perfect way to while away a couple of hours.  Other guests, clad in swimsuits, sunned and bobbed in the ocean. 

Beach bliss in November 

I think the last time we went to the beach in Greece was during our last trip to Costa Navarino. Like that time, we again had such a pleasant, kick-back afternoon! The stretch of beach we were on is a protected area of the resort as it is a breeding ground for the Carreta sea turtles.  We sipped wine in the late afternoon because the beach restaurant and bar close at sunset. . . for the sake of the turtles.

Wine on the beach - no better place to drink it

Lights are turned off so as not to disturb the turtles, who come and lay their eggs in the spring with hatching taking place in summer. The early closure though continues throughout the season to assure safety to the turtles.

Photo taken in the Costa Navarino's Resort  Nature Center

While the developers point to their sustainable practices and a focus on environment, one of my favorite things about this place is their commitment to animal welfare.  They actually have created a shelter for homeless dogs on the property and have a paid staff member coordinating volunteers and the efforts and events to get animals adopted. A visit to the on-property shelter is always a treat.

Navarino Pets - well worth a visit while at the resort

Since our last visit a new lobby display showcases those seeking a fur-ever home.  If you aren't ready to adopt one of the animals introduced on the continuous video display, there is a handy donation box just below it - so you can help at any level.  

Fresh from the fields enroute to Costa Navarino

The Peloponnese 'point' on which Costa Navarino is located is carpeted with grape vineyards, olive and orange groves. Truck gardens and orchards supply roadside stands with veggies and fruits to tempt visitors like us..

At Nestor's palace - recently restored archeological site

It is home to a number of historical sites, including nearby Nestor's Palace and the Venetian built, Methoni castle a bit further away. There's even a winery, open to the public and named after the legendary king of Pylos, Nestor, that can easily be reached from the resort.

Nestor Winery, home of Messinian inspired wines - some of our favorite

After wining and dining, resting and relaxing, we were back on the road again Thursday, heading to Kalamata for a few more errands before heading home. Sometimes even the shortest of getaways are all that is needed to rejuvenate the senses. I am sure we released a ton of endorphins between us during those 48 hours as we sure felt better after our stay!  

Of course, now I am wondering that a 'real trip' - one that encompasses a week or two - might do for these two old vagabonds.  Wouldn't you know? The Scout is already on it!

Costa Navarino sunsets are spectacular

Now back at our Stone House on the Hill, with the computer as rejuvenated as we are, I have plenty of tales to tell you in the coming weeks. Until then, how about you tell us where you've been.   Taken any getaways or longer trips? If so, tell us about them in the comments or shoot us an email. 

We enjoy your travel tales ~ 

In Greece ~ The Trip Decades in the Making

The trip we took last week, one might say, has been decades in the making.

For that reason, 'The Trip' we envisioned was going to a memorable one. It was the kind you think about for months in advance, pondering which destination would be 'the most special' - giving little regard to costs or logistics.

Four decades in the making 

'The Trip' to be taken in 2020 was our 40th wedding anniversary celebration. Special was the operative word in planning it. Those big ones don't come around often and at our age you don't know how many more are in the future. So, 'the something special trip' included visions of elegant cruise ships and/or exotic destinations.

Then 2020 was ushered in by COVID-19. . .

1980

Upon reflection, maybe we should have expected such a major unexpected turn of events, as we'd had a similar jolt to our wedding plans as well.

Back in 1980 -- just weeks before our wedding -- Mount St. Helen's blew her top and buried our central Washington State town in a layer of ash. At the time questions swirled about whether or not more eruptions were coming, if we would be able to get anyone to the church with the thick layer of ash covering the town, if guests could even travel to attend the event. There was also the question of: was ash hazardous to one's health?

For a time only essential workers were allowed out -- newspaper reporters of which I was one -- were among those workers. Because of the potential  health dangers we workers wore face masks when outside as a precaution. Sounds a bit like current times, doesn't it?

Just weeks before our wedding in Yakima, Washington

Fast forward four decades: We are now American expats living in Greece. As you know from my writings this spring, Greece took swift and somewhat draconian measures to curb COVID. As the lockdown lingered, and our world shrank, our anniversary plans were reduced to hoping restaurants might re-open so we could simply go out to dinner in the village. (I've written in earlier posts about how the pandemic lockdown changed the way we look at life - and this is a good example of that!)

Restaurants were closed during lockdown - take out was 'dining out'

However, lockdown success resulted in low COVID numbers in Greece.  That fact allowed the country to start opening to travel in early June. Hotels and restaurants are slowly coming to life. Luck was with us as the luxury resort - Costa Navarino -- re-opened June 19th, nine days before our anniversary.  And that, we decided, would be the anniversary destination!

Costa Navarino - In the time of COVID

As one follows the two-lane agricultural road through villages, olive and orange groves and vineyards that make up the most western 'finger' of the Peloponnese, the idea of ending up at five-star luxury resort seems rather farfetched.  But this posh place has been a showplace in Messinia since the first guests were welcomed in 2010. It wasn't until last year that we 'discovered' this oceanside oasis.

Our route to Costa Navarino

We are still giddy over post-lockdown travel freedoms so instead of the short two-hour route, we took a meandered drive around the point.  It is an area rich in history - and even in pre-COVID times wasn't overrun with tourists. The drive takes one to Koroni on the eastern shore; a once important port for Venetians because it was on the trade route with Middle Eastern crusader kingdoms. It, and its sister city, Methoni, on the western coast were known as the 'eyes of the republic' during the centuries this area belonged to the Venetian Republic. Each town offers tourists a castle dating back to those ancient times.

Costa Navarino might be considered the area's modern day palace for pleasure set on some 300-acres overlooking the Ionian Sea. It is home to the Westin Costa Navarino and the Romanos - both participating hotels in the Marriot Bonvoy hospitality empire. We don't golf, but that doesn't keep us from enjoying the views that extend over the  resort's two golf courses.  There is a spa, two pools, a variety of restaurants - all of the sort you'd expect to find at a high-end resort. This one offers a picture-perfect golden sand beach.

Golden sand beach at Costa Navarino

We hadn't set foot inside the lobby before we were reminded that travel during COVID19 is a whole 'new normal'. Protocols (mandated by the Greek government) are strict and fines and punishments are severe for those hospitality establishments not adhering to them. We suspect many may be with us for sometime.

Social distancing - 2 meters apart throughout the resort

Social distancing reminders were visible throughout the resort beginning at the entry to the hotel.

Temperature taken and awaiting check-in

While awaiting our turn to enter the lobby, two staff members wearing gloves and face shields greeted us with warm welcome and a question, "May we take your temperature?"  Once we cleared the temperature check we found ourselves separated by plexiglass windows from reception desk clerks  (all of whom were wearing face shields and gloves). Contactless credit cards were requested. 

Contactless is the new word in travel

Contactless seems to definitely be a 'new normal' for travel. 

Take your own temperature machine - future of travel?

Our room was spacious, the large deck offered views of the sea and the place was so clean that I didn't use any of my cleaning wipes I now routinely pack these days. 

Sanitized might be the room feature of the future

Our welcome gift last year was a bag of sea salt harvested at the resort.  This year we had a gift bag of disinfectant liquid, antibacterial handwipes, face masks and information on how to reach the hotel's onsite COVID19 doctor (one of the government's mandates for large hotels). 

Our wellness welcome gift

(A bit later a bottle of wine, sterilized wine glasses and a box of the hotel brand biscuits were delivered to the room as a welcome as well.)

Hand sanitizer machines on the beach

We followed set routes throughout the resort for exit and entry, no longer just veering off to ask a quick question at the reception desk - distancing was taken most seriously. Hand sterilizers were abundant and placed throughout the resort -- including the beach!

Scout moving hair from forehead for temperature check

Costa Navarino is a gated resort so when returning from an outing we were warmly welcomed back after providing a room number -- and this year also having our temperature taken  -- then the gate was raised. 

Love in the Time of COVID-19

I have to tell you that while it felt somewhat different (and this report might make it sound horrendously different), our stay was lovely.  High end and cheerful service from staff who were masked and gloved and working in temperatures in the 90F/30C range.  Accommodations that were clean and luxurious. It might not have been among our envisioned destinations a year ago, but we couldn't have chosen a better 'special' place.

The Flame Steakhouse - Costa Navarino

About that special celebration. . .The Scout had had his heart set on a steak dinner to celebrate the day.  The Flame Steak House Restaurant in the Golf Club didn't let him down.

Celebrating 40 years of new adventures

And who would have thought that we'd be celebrating our 40 years together as expats living our Stone House on the Hill near a delightful fishing village called Agios Nikolaos in the Greek Peloponnese?! My gift from The Scout ,a fishing net with four fish - one for each decade - couldn't have been more perfect!

Next week I'll be telling you about another palace . . .that of King Nestor's. . .it is just down the road from Costa Navarino.

As always thanks for the time you've spent with us today. Stay safe and stay healthy ~

Linking soon with ~

Mosaic Monday
Through My Lens
Travel Tuesday
Our World Tuesday
My Corner of the World Wednesday
Wordless Wednesday

Costa Navarino~ A Road Trip Out of Greece

We've just returned to Greece. . .or at least it feels that way. 

Pylos town - Greek Peloponnese

You see we took a road trip to a luxury resort not far from our house. A sprawling oasis of pure bling with two five-star hotels, an enormous spa and so many top-notch restaurants that you could lose count of them all. It is the type of place you'd find in Hawaii and Arizona; similar to posh places in France and Italy . . . for that matter, on our glitzy islands, Santorini or Mykonos. But, Messinia?!

Sailboats docked at Pylos harbor - Peloponnese

We'd driven northwest from our home in The Mani, past Kalamata and then across Pylia, the most western Peloponnese 'finger'. Like most road trips in this area we'd slowed for farmers on tractors and had passed a dozen or so mom-and-pop fruit stands that line the narrow two-lane road that serves as a 'highway' here.  Our route took us through villages so small that a mere blink and you'd miss them; each with some distinctly Greek name,like, Neromylos, water mills.

A common sight on the roads of Pylia this time of year

Eventually signs directed us to an even more narrow road that wound through an ancient olive grove, and then another turn and we were on way to the resort's security gate at the end of a landscaped drive. A gate we wouldn't have gotten past without reservations, I might add.

Fruit stands line the highway - it is orange season

Two hours after leaving home, we'd arrived at Costa Navarino, the 321-acre resort featuring side-by-side hotels --The Westin and Romanos Luxury Collection -- two golf courses, an enormous spa, conference facilities to serve 1,700 and so many swimming pools and high end restaurants that we lost count of them all.

From Agios Nikolaos on the right to Romanos on the left

The lobby of the small  Kalamata Airport, some 40 minutes away from the resort, is a showroom for the resort. Enormous photos, maps and information - you can't miss the hype for the ultra luxury experience to be had at this place. Each time we saw the display, we'd say we should check it out. Finally, we did!

The resort opened in May 2010, a few years before we happened upon the Messinian region of the Peloponnese. At the time of its opening, it featured The Dunes 18-hole golf course. A second course, The Bay, opened the following year. (Two more courses are being developed in the area of Navarino Hills.)

A view of The Dunes golf course - Costa Navarino

Since we can't yet travel outside Greece (still waiting for those residence permits), this seemed a perfect destination for last week's road trip. While the valet parked our car, we were greeted by a charming receptionist from Venice and we were settled in our room shortly after 1 p.m.

Center of The Westin Lobby - Costa Navarino

The common area décor was simply understated elegance.  The guest suites posh and amenities luxurious.  We felt as if we'd left the Greek world we know and entered a different one.  There was at ubiquitous resort feel ~ it could have been a resort anywhere in the world.

'Agora's' restaurants and big screen - Costa Navarino

At times when strolling its grounds, with no sign of the Mediterranean Sea, (it is set back from the beach for environmental reasons) we'd comment that it felt like we were in Scottsdale, Arizona. And there's nothing wrong with that!

Our 'family suite' had two full bathrooms and large deck

For those of us who live in Greece and who would like a change of scenery and tastes, it was perfect option. We were upgraded -- thanks to the Marriott/Starwood Bonvoy hotel loyalty program -- to what is called a 'family suite' - a room large enough that we could have lived in the place. It was difficult to pull ourselves away from our room.

One Man's Dream

A bit of Navarino Bay

Captain Vassilis Constantakopulos from Diavolitsi, a small village with 854 residents, about 39 km from Kalamata, had the vision for putting his Messinian homeland on the tourist map. After a few decades at sea, he founded a successful shipping company, expanded into other businesses and by 1980 had conceived the vision of Costa Navarino. While he retired in 2005 and turned the business over to family, he lived to see the resort open. He died in 2011.

He'd likely be quite proud of the award-winning resort these days as  among its accolades are: National Georgraphic Travel Editors named it one of the 20 Best Destinations in the World, it was named the European Golf Resort of the Year in 2017 by the Golf Tourism Association and The Westin has been voted the "Best Family Destination' in The Mediterranean. 

A Sustainable Destination

The resort's web site proudly claims to be 'the prime sustainable destination in the Mediterranean.' After seeing first-hand the environmental and socio-economic efforts going on here, they certainly have a right to such a boast.

Beach café has limited operation in deference to the turtles

Let's start at the beach:  The restaurant, with the most beautiful undulating canvas roof I've ever seen, operates only in the daytime. At sundown the beach belongs to the turtles as explained in the sign in the photo.

A Blue Flag beach - Costa Navarino

The beach is also one of only a few hundred in all of Greece to be awarded the Blue Flag designation. Criteria for the flag recognition include: cleanliness, water quality, organization, swimmer safety, and environmental protection.

How old is this tree?!?!? we exclaimed.

 The development also has the Navarino Pet Community animal adoption center, a place that is open to guests to visit and adopt previously unwanted animals who are cared for by a team of volunteers. Forty animals have found new 'fur-ever' homes thanks to those volunteers.

A decade ago the founders of Costa Navarino formed a partnership with the academic community and created the Navarino Environmental Observatory that operates with a focus on research and educational programs on climate change and the environment.

Keeping locals employed and able to live in Messinia was part of the founder's original vision. Producing Navarino Icons, the private resort label of products including wine, olives and olive oil is one way of doing that. (You can find these at Dean and Deluca and Whole Foods in the US and Marks and Spencer in the UK).

Security guard at work - Costa Navarino

Perhaps the favorite part of our stay was the morning breakfast buffet, which was included in the room rate.  Food displays filled two interior  rooms of a large restaurant and guests sat in an open air covered terrace area.  Aside from the food, what made breakfast a treat was 'the security guard' who roamed (with his handler) through the restaurant.  

Being open air, we learned the sparrows that swoop, dive and entertain throughout the grounds had been little pests: dive-bombing tables and making away with food. With a hawk keeping watch they haven't had that problem. And as the handler said with a smile, "The sparrows don't know he is tethered to me!" They keep their distance now!

On that note it is time to thank you for the time you've spent with us at Costa Navarino and we hope you'll be back next week when we take a look at the realities of road trips and driving in Greece!  Hope to see you again soon! Safe travels to you and yours ~

Linking this week with:

Through My Lens
Our World Tuesday
Wordless Wednesday