'Twas the Best and Worst of Times

Our recent Greek island-hopping adventure was both the best and the worst of times.

Ferry tales of a Greek island-hopping adventure

In theory, traveling when we did, before 'the (tourist) season', is one of the best of times to travel in Greece. Hotel rates are reasonable, popular destinations are uncrowded, pleasant spring temperatures abound, and choices of ferry accommodations (seats and cabins) are plentiful.

The risks of pre-season travel are that not all businesses catering to tourists (restaurants, shops, some hotels) will be open, temperatures might be a bit brisk, and ferries schedules might be limited. 

Foot Loose and Fancy Free  

From Athens to Cyclades, Dodecanese and back again by ferry

The only plan we had was to be footloose and fancy free, visiting old favorites and exploring new islands on this Grecian staycation. But The Scout's advance research found ferry schedules a challenge to that carefree plan, as arrivals and departures at some islands are in the middle of the night. Not being night owl travelers, we booked ferries that sailed at 'reasonable hours' to the first two islands we'd decided to visit.   

Leaving Piraeus - next stop Syros

After spending a night in Athens, we set sail for Syros in the Cycladic Island group. Our mid-afternoon ferry from Athen's port city, Piraeus got us to the island in time for dinner.  We'd stay there a couple of days before departing on an overnight ferry (in a cabin) to Kos, a Dodecanese Island as stone's throw from Türkiye. We'd select the next destination while on Kos.

Surprises on Syros

Ermoúpolis, Syros

Ermoúpolis, named for Hermes, the messenger god, son of Zeus, was the first place we visited in Greece nearly 15 years ago. We were eager to revisit this bustling port city, home to more than 11,000 residents. It has to be one of the prettiest cities in Greece with its stunning neo-classical buildings framing its marble streets and sidewalks.

Buildings and streets were art works to behold

We stayed in Hotel Hermes, walking distance from the ferry. Our room was spacious, the large patio opening to the sea. It was chilly, but coupled with blue skies, fluffy clouds and sunshine, it was perfect for exploring the city on foot. We laughed at the weather forecasts predicting 'severe thunderstorms'.

Emergency alert no April Fool's joke!

Mother Nature got the last laugh.  

We were at a local restaurant when the emergency alert jangled every mobile phone in the place. We'd all received the message pictured above from Greece's Civil Protection Agency about a major storm heading towards the Cycladic islands. 

Shortly after the message came the rain.                                                                                                       And the wind.                                                                                                                                               And the thunder.                                                                                                                                          And the lightening.                                                                                                                                

And the notification that our 10 pm ferry wouldn't be arriving until 3:45 am

Rain and hail and a 4:30 a.m. boarding - off to Kos

We luckily were able to book one of two rooms remaining in the hotel that we'd checked out of that morning along with a 3 a.m. wakeup call. So much for not being night owl travelers!

Our feet were drenched -- we'd given up dodging puddles as the entire street was a puddle-- by the time we got to the ferry at 3:30 a.m. There were no taxis running at that hour. Thankfully there was a roof over the waiting area on the dock, as it started hailing at about the time that we learned the ferry wouldn't arrive until 4:30 a.m.  

To bed at 5 a.m. and bed never felt so good!

We were in our cabin beds by 5 a.m., slept until 8 and arrived in Kos about noon. 

It gave a new meaning to doing an 'all-nighter'!

New Finds in an Old Favorite

Rain followed us to Kos Island

It is our third stay on this Greek island and our third stay at the waterfront hotel, the Albergo Gelsomino, a charming eight room property built in 1928. Both are travel destination favorites of ours.

Storm's aftermath - the hotel patio

Waves washed across the roadway we walked the short distance from the ferry to our hotel.  The storm had strewn stones and sand across the pavement just as it had the hotels patio. 

Room-bound to dry out - not too tough to take

We'd planned to take a one-day excursion to Bodrum, Türkiye. from here but it was too early in the season and none were running.  Instead, we explored new areas in the town of Kos, as we could between the continuing rain spells.  Many restaurants, bars and retail stores hadn't yet reopened for the season.  We found ourselves retreating to the room to dry out and warm up, but with the room we had, it wasn't to tough to take.  

Traveling along Turkiye

By this point in the trip we'd given up on visiting new islands; we were off to Rhodes, for a stay at another old favorite, Nikos Takis Fashion Boutique Hotel within the walls of the old city,  Our ferry was delayed a couple of hours but at least it was sunny, so we sat on the open deck still snuggled up in our winter coats as we sped along the Turkish coastline. We were so close that my mobile phone provider sent me a message welcoming me to Türkiye.

Rambles in Rhodes

A sunbreak photo in old Rhodes

The medieval old town never gets old to this pair of travelers.  We could explore its winding, narrow streets time and time again.  And we would have explored even more of them this time, had the rain not followed us there.  Luckily our hotel room had a radiator in the bathroom that was perfect for drying our soggy shoes.  Our souvenirs were new insoles for my shoes and a new umbrella to replace our wind-broken one.

We had a Sunday morning cloudburst shortly after I took this photo

Calling it Quits

The bouncing bedroom

We gave up. 

Mother Nature had won this time around.  We were heading back to Athens, but the only cabin left on the overnight ferry was a deluxe double bed. (We discovered after embarkation that two large student groups were also traveling on this sailing and had apparently filled the regular single-bed rooms.)  

The room was spectacular and right at the front of the ship. It would have been perfect had it not been a stormy sea that bounced us around like drunkards as we staggered to the bathroom and back during the night.

Back to Athens

A blue-sky, but winter-cold, Athens welcomed us back.  We learned after checking into our hotel that a city-wide strike was scheduled for the next day: public and private sector employees, transit, rail, air, ferries.  All would be on strike.  

Public Market streets are graffiti decorated

We did find that several stores were open as were bars and restaurants on 'strike day'.  The riot police were out in force (normal for when strikes of this size take place). We avoided 'strike central gathering spots' like Syntagma Square, and opted to visit the people's market, the sprawling public market offering meat, fish, cheese, vegetables, antiques and souvenirs.  

We ended the staycation a day early.  It agreed that it had been both the best and worst of times.  We'd had great accommodations, good food and drink, and revisited favorite places. It had been wet, cold and nasty weather. We both caught colds. But it was certainly, a trip we won't forget any time soon.  

These kinds of trips can happen despite the best of planning efforts. How about your travels?  Have you also had some best and worst of times trips?  Tell us about them in the comments or shoot us an email.  

Thanks for your time with us and safe travels to you and yours~