'Time for a coffee any time soon?' texted one of my girlfriends the other day. Her question was aptly worded as meeting for a coffee is not a hurried affair here - it takes time.
Going out for a coffee has become one of our favorite pastimes in this chosen expat life of ours, although, doing it 'the Greek way' was initially one of the most difficult behaviors to wrap our heads around.
Morning coffee at seaside in Stoupa village |
We came to this new life bringing our American coffee break habits with us: drink it hot and drink it fast, visit quickly and don't get a parking ticket. So, in Greece we carried that rapid consumption mindset with us, drinking - not sipping - our coffee and observing those around us. 'How can they sit so long over a cup of coffee?' we'd ask ourselves.
Coffee and complimentary cake in the village |
Here, the sipping is done so slowly that the coffee can actually cool down before it is finished. Then you tag on a bit of extra time to drink the glasses of water and nibble the complimentary cookies or cake bits brought with it.
I'd wager that indulging in a coffee over the span of an hour or more, is almost a rite of passage into Greek culture and community.
This Greek coffee culture is serious business as shown by statistics from the World Coffee Portal: Greeks consume 40,000 tons of coffee a year, 40% of which is consumed outside the home.
Kalamata coffee stop while running errands |
The coffee culture is so pervasive that the Athens Coffee Festival, September 28 - 30, this year is expected to attract some 32,000 aficionados, vendors, and coffee professionals.
We aren't sure when we morphed into sipping coffee in the appropriately slow manner, but we have become believers in its benefits.
Watching the harbor is a popular coffee activity in Ag. Nikolaos |
Here going out for a coffee can be done with groups of people or by oneself. Coffee sippers might open a book and read for an hour or more, join in a game of backgammon, watch the village happenings, visit with friends or simply sit and sip. You might find some looking at their mobile devices, but seldom will you see people bent over computers as you do in a Starbucks in the States.
Watching traffic is a favorite activity while sipping coffee. |
No, coffee in our village is a time for watching traffic make its way down our only north-south route through town. And it is always fun to speculate on which big truck might not squeeze past the balconies and awnings. Or we might watch the fishing boats come and go in the harbor. Or we might just visit with friends or with tourists seated at nearby tables or walking past.
Take a book and leave a book at the local coffee shop. |
Sometimes we use the coffee time to select books from the 'take a book, leave a book' shelves available at a number of the cafes in town. This is a particularly nice feature of having coffee out, when living in an area where we don't have libraries or bookstores.
Morning coffee at the Kafenio in our village |
And going out for coffee could almost be reasoned to be healthy here because often it is paired with a walk.
Getting to the Coffee
A grove on my way to coffee called out for a photo |
For most of the year the weather is conducive to walking to the coffee shop, taverna, or the traditional kafenio. We have versions of them all in the two villages that are walking distance from our Stone House on the Hill. So, when we go for a coffee, we generally get in a two-mile walk. Walking is such a normal activity, done by so many, that we often pass friends and neighbors, and we get in a visit or two as well as exercise.
On my way home from coffee - the seaside route |
Our route takes us through olive groves and along the sea - I never tire of photographing scenes along the way.
A 'friend' on the coffee shop route |
We've obviously adapted to this coffee culture as we often chuckle at how easily the mornings 'get away from us' these days when all we've done is to go out for a coffee.
And we now understand why some jokingly say that drinking coffee is the National Sport of Greece.
Coffee Pantazi Beach February coffee |
That's it from Greece where winter is still hanging on, although the wildflowers have sprouted along our 'coffee route' and spring is just around the corner. We can even sit outside for most of our coffees. We thank you for the time you've spent sipping coffee with us. We send wishes for your continued safe travels.
What a wonderful description of the joys of going out for a cup of coffee. It's much the same here in Seville — leisurely, social, and involving just enough exercise to justify the cake. Thanks for this lovely summary of a quintessential Mediterranean experience.
ReplyDeleteSuch fun to read about the Greek coffee culture as it is similar to the one here in the South of France. My native country the Netherlands also has a strong coffee culture and you do not toss it down and go on your way. I love sitting on a terrace, sip my coffee and watch the people go by.
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