Greece. . .Now, as it was back then. . .

The slow, steady clomp of the hooves against the ages-old stone paved passage ways of Hydra town announced the pack's approach.  Now, as it was done 'back then', we stepped aside and let these beasts of burden carry on the island's tradition of transportation. 

A common sight on Hydra and island keeping equine traditions

Equines - horses, donkeys and burros - have always transported both goods and people on this small island in the Saronic Gulf.  Even in this age of technology, they continue to do so. There are no privately-owned cars, trucks or bikes here. One of the island's endearing charms for us, is its nod to history by continuing its reliance on animals. 

This island, with only one harbor town and a few smaller villages scattered about, has only three motorized vehicles: a small garbage truck, a small truck for hauling and an ambulance. For that matter it has only one or two short stretches of  roads  wide enough to accommodate the small vehicles.  Even taxis are in the form of boats . . .or horses!

A common sight in Hydra town

The island's main commercial area wraps around its picturesque harbor.  Most tourist accommodations and private homes are housed in centuries-old buildings snuggled side-by-side on the steep hillsides that frame the harbor. Many of them are accessed by narrow passageways and stairs; just the right size for a pedestrian or an equine. 

 

Supply barge arrives and it's time to distribute the goods

One of our favorite times here is in the early morning when the supply barge laden with everything from pallets of bottled water to construction materials arrives. The muleteers, or as they are called in Greek, the agogiatis or kyratzis, and their animals are ready. The distribution begins.  During our recent visit it took two days to get all the supplies offloaded.

Might be hauling his own dinner off the barge

Since back in the time when pirates plied the waters and the town was centered on the hilltop, these steadfast steeds  have carried people and parcels to those upmost reaches of the island. Many continue to be outfitted with the same style wooden saddles as those used decades ago for goods transportation .

Loaded and headed to the construction site

I was a bit surprised when researching this post, to learn that there was a time when 40 percent of Greece's donkeys were found in the southern Peloponnese; as that is the same area where we make our home these days. There, like on Hydra and elsewhere in Greece, the animals hauled goods and people over the kalderimi's, those narrow stone roads that linked villages in early times. They were used to plow the fields and as the power source in grain mills and olive oil presses.

The supply barge is met by teams of pack animals in Hydra

With the advent of motorized vehicles and construction of wider asphalt and concrete roads, the use of animals has, since the mid 20th century, been diminishing.  What was startling -- and dismaying -- was learning while researching this post was that the numbers of animals themselves has also severely diminished.  

In an on-line article about equine in Greece, Giorgos Arsenos, assistant professor at the Aristotle University of Veterinary Medicine says that the numbers of donkeys had fallen from a half million in the mid 1950's to just over 18,000 in 1996. I was unable to find more current figures.

Step aside the pack train is coming through

Luckily, the Municipal Council of Hydra and the residents there see the value of this time honored  animal tradition and are continuing to foster it in a manner that is both humane and practical.  

Yes, even the kitchen sink!

As animal lovers, we are always concerned about the treatment of animals and in the case of the equines on Hydra, I can assure you that the animals waiting at harbor's edge to transport tourists and luggage have sunshades provided and plenty of water.  As you make your way through the passageways back from the harbor it is always a delight to happen upon a few bales of hay, one of their many feeding stations.  

Since what goes in must come out, we can also vouch for the fact that at the first dropping from an animal the entire pack is stopped, the manure is scooped up by the muleteer and carried away in leather packs attached to the animals backs- we suspect - to later be used as fertilizer.  

Morning coffee floor show on Hydra Island

The welfare of the animals is also monitored by the combined efforts of HydraArk, an animal lovers group on the island, The Municipality of Hydra, The Greek Animal Welfare Fund and Animal Action Greece. These four entities provide annual visits to the island of a team made up of a dentist, veterinarian and a farrier who provide free of charge exams for all the animals.

Too cute for words in Hydra - old style saddle

If visitors to the island is concerned about a particular animal's welfare they are encouraged to contact the local police who are in charge of investigating any abuse reports. I suspect few reports are made  as the equines and the island's cats are among some of the most pampered animals we've encountered in our travels in Greece.  But the tale of the cats is yet another story for another time. . .

Sunshades for the horses waiting for the ferry

That is it for this week from very hot Greece. Summer has arrived.  The country continues to monitor COVID19 numbers and face masks continue to be a required part of  this 'new normal' world in which we find ourselves.  We hope where ever this reaches you, that you are safe and well and at least doing some armchair traveling! Hope you'll be back with us next week  and as always, thanks for your time!

Linking soon with:

Mosaic Monday
Through My Lens
Travel Tuesday
Our World Tuesday
My Corner of the World Wednesday
Wordless Wednesday