A Night in Nafplio

A Night in Nafplio. . .sounds rather like a movie title, doesn't it?

The land of castles and kings - Nafplio

You know. . . one of those summer escapade films starring the likes of Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn. Maybe I watched too many of those movies in my youth, but sometimes even the briefest of getaways in Greece, where we live as expats, feels as exhilarating as the storylines of those old time travel/romance films.

Nafplio streets are quiet following the spring CV lockdown

And I can tell you, it is even more exhilarating when it follows weeks of coronavirus prevention lockdown!

Palimidi fort dates back to 1715 the year of its completion

Our night in Nafplio came as part of our first post-lockdown road trip.  We'd planned to island hop through the Saronic islands near the eastern coast of the Peloponnese. But with hotels not yet open on Hydra we opted to spend a night on the mainland as we made our way home from Spetses island. And there is no more perfect a place to do that than Nafplio (naf-plee-oh).

Bougainvillea-draped pedestrian streets of Nafplio

Nafplio is simply a fairy tale setting come to life. The old town's cityscape is one of medieval castles, ancient walls, Ottoman fountains and Venetian buildings. It charmed us nearly a decade ago when we first came to the Peloponnese and it continues to cast a spell over us each time we visit.

Sunset at harborside in Nafplio

It is easy to lose yourself to its charms as you stroll its narrow streets or sit sipping coffee or wine in a cafe at the side of a square -- particularly its Syntagma Square where there is always a group of children playing soccer, it seems, no matter the time of year we visit.  Syntagma, meaning 'constitution' is a perfect place to ponder what it was like back when this ancient town was the capital of the newly liberated Hellenic Republic. That would be back in the early 1800's before Athens took over that title.

Bourtzi, centerpiece of Nafplio harbor

Nafplio has served as a seaport town since back in the Middle Ages. Legend has it that it was founded by Nafplios, son of Poseidon.  A stroll along the harbor is a must. No matter how many times we have visited, we always pause to admire the Bourtzi, a small Venetian fortress on  Agioi Theordoroi. What stories that little islet could tell!

Selections at Mediterraneo Wine Bar seemed endless

The city has a bit of something for everyone. You could easily spend several days immersed in history, visiting the Palamidi fort (reached by climbing some 900 steps up the face of the cliff or driving there) or visiting its Archaeological Museum and War History Museum. Shoppers likely will tire before visiting all the shops that line the pedestrian-friendly streets.  Old traditional Greek storefronts operate next to some of the sleekest, upscale fine dining restaurants and wine bars you could find outside Athens.

Even doors are picturesque in Nafplio

It is difficult to choose a hotel there as so many boutique, family-owned places tempt.  For those wondering, our hotel was following the strictest of coronavirus prevention mandates set forth by the Greek government:  our room key was sterilized in a special sanitation process, the room as spotless and the former serve-yourself buffet breakfast was served by a staff member.

View from our hotel room

Prior to the Coronavirus world, Nafplio was a a magnet for tourists - buses filled the parking lots and tourists filled the ancient narrow streets.  The city was pretty much empty when we visited.  (True confession:  it was nice having fewer people there.) Greece doesn't open its doors to international guests until July 1st so no telling what tourism will be like this summer. For the sake of businesses, we hope there are increased numbers.

Nafplio a photographer's paradise

We are off soon on one more road trip before the borders open. We are heading west this time to visit more Peloponnese favorites and will tell you about them in our next report.  We know that a number of you are still in varying stages of lockdown and we send our wishes to you: stay safe and stay well!

As always we thank you for the time you spend with us at TravelnWrite and a big welcome to our new readers - thanks for the wonderful emails you've sent!!

Linking soon with:

Mosaic Monday
Through My Lens
Travel Tuesday
Our World Tuesday
My Corner of the World Wednesday
Wordless Wednesday

In Greece ~ A Long Awaited Holibob

Refreshed and Renewed we are!

It is amazing what the shortest of holibobs will do for a traveler's soul after weeks of being COVID19-prevention-confined in the Greek Peloponnese.

Picturesque Spetses Island

Holibob is my new word of the week.  As I've written before, being an American expat in Greece and living among expats largely from Europe has expanded our vocabulary immensely. Case in point: holibob.

Greek ferry travel is one of our favorite means of transport

When discussing our travel plans with Julia, a British friend in the village, she exclaimed, 'You are taking a holibob!' Such is the word they use to describe a trip in which one 'bobs' from one place to another.

Saronic islands - a not to miss experience

Now, doesn't that put a new spin on our phrase 'road trip'?!?

Our holibob was planned to be a four-night getaway to two islands in the Saronic Gulf.  But as we've learned in the last few months, life's travel 'plans' are probably better referred to as travel 'hopes'.

Pine trees Greek style on this mountain pass

It is a four-hour drive from our Stone House on the Hill to the tip of the 'thumb' of the Peloponnese from which the ferry to Spetses in the Saronic Island chain sets forth.  The route includes divided four-lane toll roads and tiny winding roads through orange groves and forested mountainsides. The ferry crossing is 25 minutes each way.

After two nights on Spetses we would head to nearby Hydra (Idra). That was the plan, anyway.

Travel within Greece has been allowed for a couple of weeks with hotels, eateries, tavernas and bars  getting the go-ahead to open about the same time as travel restrictions were lifted. Tourists from outside Greece begin arriving this week so we wanted to get in a 'bob' before those from elsewhere begin arriving. Greece is moving from mandatory COVID19 testing of all arrivals to random.

Hydra island in the distance 

However, relaxing the airport testing -- along with a small  spike in cases last week -- has resulted in the national COVID prevention team (scientists and doctors advising the government) being brought back together. The government has begun imposing regional and local lockdowns  and will continue to do so, as necessary as Greece continues to reopen.

Much like I wrote in our last post about Gythio, it felt so good. . .so normal. . .to be traveling again. But there is no ignoring the fact that travel is a different animal these days. Packing a packet of disposable surface cleaners, liquid hand sanitizer, sanitizer wipes and face masks -- and using them -- does put a different feel on a getaway.

All passengers must wear masks on the ferry pictured behind me

Face masks are required to be worn by all staff who serve food and beverages. Far more places we ate and sipped at than not, were complying with the rule. Many servers wore gloves as well. Face masks are required on public transportation like trains, buses and ferries with interior seating. Our open air ferry didn't require masks. . .I might add there were about a dozen walk on passengers on each of our sailings. Self distancing wasn't a problem.

Hotel Klimis (on the left) walking distance from the ferry dock

I felt silly wiping down door handles and light switch covers at The Klimis Hotel where we stayed because our room had been sanitized and cleaned before our arrival (we were told our getting into the room could be delayed for sanitizing). Whew! The smell of disinfectant was so strong we opened the doors to the deck to air it out a bit, but felt safe in knowing that the place sparkled. And yes, I still wiped down table surfaces and other such places.

Our self-distanced deck and views from it

Hand sanitizer bottles were strategically placed in common areas of the hotel, retail stores and restaurants. It is amazing how many times you touch things with little notice to the act until you've become germophobic as I seem to be these days.

A sign of the times in Spetses

There were few tourists about the town - another plus of taking a mid-week jaunt.  It had been busy the prior three-day holiday weekend, we were told.

Serious about prevention in Greece

Tavernas, bars, restaurants and shops with the exception of a few were open.  Rules about entry were new additions to the shop windows.

Distanced and ready for diners on Spetses

It wasn't until we attempted to make reservations for two nights on nearby Hydra island that we realized how 'shut down' Greece remains.  Hotels there weren't open so we cut the holibob short and headed back to the mainland, with a new plan to spend the night in an old favorite, Nafplio.   It is another like Gythio - such a favorite that I really must tell you about it next time!

Until then we hope this finds you and yours safe and well.  Add a comment or send an email and let us know how things are in your part of the world.

Linking sometime with:

Mosaic Monday
Through My Lens
Travel Tuesday
Our World Tuesday
My Corner of the World Wednesday
Wordless Wednesday